A tale of two Hyatts Place

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Last week I took a road trip to neighboring Delaware to check out some of the beach communities we missed on our trip to Exmore in August. It was a fun time, and since neither of us had ever been to Delaware before we built the trip around completing the Discover Delaware Trail. We saw a lot of Delaware, and got some great ideas for stuff we’d like to do next summer assuming the vaccination campaign is up to speed by then.

But I don’t want to talk about Delaware today, I want to talk about “brand standards.” Except when American Express is running offers that are only valid at specific property types, I’m basically indifferent to the sub-brands each hotel chain licenses, not because I don’t acknowledge there are differences, but because there are just too many for me to keep straight. At the low end who cares if it’s a Hyatt House or a Hyatt Place, in the middle can anyone keep straight the difference between a Hyatt, Grand Hyatt, or Hyatt Regency, and even at the most luxurious properties, how do you decide between a Waldorf Astoria and a Conrad (the Maldives is host to both)?

Like any sane person, I decide between hotels based on location and cost, taking into account any points balances, free award nights, and credit card promotions. Which is why I was so surprised by the totally different practices at the two Hyatts Place we stayed in the same state during the same week.

Hyatt Place Dewey Beach versus Hyatt Place Wilmington Riverfront

To get it out of the way: these are two different properties in different parts of the state, they opened 6 years apart, and they have different ownership groups. Obviously the properties are going to be different. Dewey Beach is a party town just south of Rehoboth Beach, and relies on summer vacationers and hard-partying future Supreme Court Justices. Wilmington is a financial center that brings in conventions and business travelers year-round (until this year).

The Hyatt Place Dewey Beach was happy to sell us some beers to take out back and watch the sunset over the bay, but they didn’t have a kitchen, instead offering a few packaged snacks next to the reception counter. The Wilmington Riverfront had a “grab and go” pantry, but also a bar and restaurant, which served both lunch and dinner until March (they now open at 4 pm and close at 9:30 pm for an extremely limited dinner menu only).

But that’s not what I’m talking about. I’m talking about the stuff that goes to the core of so-called “brand standards,” and three things stuck out to me:

  • Coffee. In Dewey Beach, the Hyatt Place had removed coffee makers from the rooms. This seemed perfectly reasonable: coffee makers are high-contact surfaces and relatively difficult to thoroughly clean (we occasionally run vinegar through our home coffee maker and it doesn’t work particularly well). Instead, they offered coffee all-day in the lobby, which worked fine for us. Imagine our surprise when we arrived in Wilmington and the coffee makers, difficult to clean and all, were still in the rooms.

  • Breakfast. Stays at Hyatts Place include breakfast, and when we checked in at Dewey Beach the receptionist informed us that they were offering one “hot item” and one “cold item.” The next morning I went down and discovered that the hot item was a Jimmy Dean sausage sandwich. Not a Jimmy Dean-style sausage sandwich — it was literally still in its microwaveable Jimmy Dean wrapping paper. When I mentioned this to the receptionist in Wilmington, she was shocked, since they have someone come in every morning exclusively to cook breakfast in order to meet “brand standards,” a rotating cycle of french toast sticks, oatmeal, and something else.

  • Toiletries. Another weird one: our bathroom in Dewey Beach was set up with shampoo and conditioner, but not skin lotion, which I’ve come to expect at even the most basic chain hotels. And sure enough, the Hyatt Place in Wilmington provided it.

None of this would have been of more than passing interest for me at all, except that while I was waiting to pick up a few things for dinner in Wilmington, the receptionist wandered over and I told her I was surprised by the difference between the two properties. She got more agitated than I was! They had worked so hard to meet “brand standards” since they opened in October, and this other property in the same chain 90 miles away was just phoning it in. I guess I’d be upset too.

Conclusion

Nothing on Earth could convince me to learn the differences between the 28 post-merger Marriott sub-brands, and in general I’m going to stick to booking the cheapest properties in the locations that best suit my needs. But the fact that two properties in the same sub-brand, in the same state, could have such different interpretations of “brand standards” has at least given me pause. Where prices and redemption costs are similar, I might start occasionally picking up the phone to find out in advance how individual properties are implementing them.

How I'm positioned going into 2021

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With the end of the year in sight and the possibility of travel again appearing on the horizon, I thought it would be unusually desirous to take stock of my current portfolio of rewards currencies, identify any strengths and shortcomings, and apply myself with renewed vigor as needed.

Bank Programs

The three bank-sponsored programs I participate in are Chase Ultimate Rewards, US Bank Flexperks, and Barclay’s Arrival+, and right now my Chase balance is the only one I feel good about. With four Freedom cards I can earn up to 120,000 Ultimate Rewards points per year depending on how the bonus categories fall, and my Ink Plus lets me earn 250,000 more points at office supply stores, preferably during negative cost promotions like the one currently running at Office Depot and OfficeMax.

US Bank Flexpoints are worth 1.5 cents each when redeemed through the US Bank travel portal or through Real-Time Rewards, which allows you to redeem points for their full value against purchases at many merchant categories. That means the Flexperks Travel Rewards card earns the equivalent of 3% cash back at grocery stores, and it’s typically one of my go-to cards for grocery store manufactured spend. However, times haven’t been typical, and it fell out of my rotation in favor of cards offering temporary benefits during the pandemic, like my Chase Hyatt card and American Express Delta Platinum card, which is earning the equivalent of 1.5 SkyMiles per dollar (at $1,000 thresholds), with bonus MQM’s along for the ride. I wouldn’t normally consider buying SkyMiles for 2 cents each, but the bonus MQM’s (and recent news that all 2020 MQM will roll over to 2021) and the time-limited nature of the deals ended up convincing me to put a fair amount of spend on the card this year.

Finally, I still have a Barclays Arrival+ card, which used to function as a decent 2%+ cash back card with a chip-and-PIN functionality for use abroad and a trip delay benefit, which made it my go-to card when booking paid flights. Effective November 1, 2019, the trip delay benefit was removed, so I can’t recommend anyone pay an annual fee on the card anymore, as long as they have access to 2% or higher cash back on unbonused spend with another card (Fidelity Rewards or Citi Double Cash, for example).

Airline Programs

From one perspective, my airline mile balances are even more dismal than my bank balances. My highest balance is with Delta, with about 40,000 miles, and my lowest with Alaska, at around 13,000, with American and United in between. In hindsight this ended up being the ideal way to go into the pandemic, since the balances that ended up stranded and unredeemable since March were so minuscule. Looking forward, of course, I’d ideally like to get at least some of those balances up in order to opportunistically redeem them in the summer and fall.

My United Mileage Plus balance is the easiest to address since it’s an Ultimate Rewards transfer partner, so my strategy for earning more Ultimate Rewards points works as a Mileage Plus strategy as well.

In 2021 I’ll have two Delta companion certificates: my 2020 companion certificate with its extended expiration date of December 31, 2021, and the new 2021 certificate I’ll receive in May. Those should cover all my domestic Delta travel in 2021.

With my family on the West Coast, my partner’s family easily accessible on American Airlines, and Alaska joining oneworld on March 31, 2021, I expect Mileage Plan miles will be one of the most valuable currencies for me for the next few years. Unfortunately, opportunities to earn them besides through flying are pretty limited. I have a good relationship with Bank of America, so I’ll keep an eye out for heightened credit card signup bonuses in 2021 (the current offer is for 40,000 miles with a waived annual fee the first year).

Another option for flights operated by Alaska and American will be to transfer Ultimate Rewards points to British Airways Avios, which should be redeemable for the lowest-priced award tickets on either carrier. Tickets to the Pacific Northwest cost the same with Avios as they do with Mileage Plan, and British Airways offers periodic bonuses when transferring points in. Unfortunately, those low-level award tickets are few and far between, so realistically Mileage Plan miles and companion fares will remain the best way to book Alaska Airlines flights. Flights to the Midwest on American cost just 15,000 Avios roundtrip, which would create a decent opportunity if flights weren’t already so cheap. Instead, I’ll likely just pay with Flexpoints or Arrival+ miles and credit the flights to Alaska.

Finally, my American balance, about 15,000 miles, is low enough that my two best options are to either spend it down entirely (for example on a 15,000-mile roundtrip redemption to the Midwest), or to aggressively boost it with a new credit card application. Since Citi doesn’t want my business anymore, that would mean a Barclays Aviator Red MasterCard (current signup bonus of 50,000 miles, $99 annual fee not waived). With no minimum spend requirement, that’s almost a tempting offer, but I don’t have a concrete enough redemption in mind to justify the application for now.

Hotel Programs

My two main hotel programs are Hilton and Hyatt, and here things are actually looking alright.

While my World of Hyatt points balance is low, I’m sitting on one Category 1-4 free night award from 2020 (extended until December 31, 2021), earning another by spending $4,000 on the card by December 31, 2020, and will receive a third when my card is renewed in April 2021. This is perfect as I already have (tentative, vaccine-dependent) plans for these awards in July, since a new Category 4 Hyatt opened in Portland in February, 2020. For additional Hyatt stays in 2021 I’ll be depending on Ultimate Rewards transfers.

My Hilton balance is in much sorrier shape. I actually went into the pandemic with a reasonable reserve, but it’s also the only hotel currency I’ve redeemed since March: two nights on the Eastern Shore in August and a 4-night stay in the Midwest in October. Without accelerated earning or definite plans, I simply stopped putting grocery store manufactured spend on my American Express Surpass card. Since American Express updated their website to show progress towards the $15,000 spend requirement to earn a free weekend night certificate, I realized there’s virtually no way I’ll spend that much on the card this year. Simply put, it was a wasted year not earning one of my favorite rewards currencies or the free night certificate that’s a main justification for keeping the card. In 2021, I’ll be ramping up spend again and getting ready for redemptions in the summer and fall.

Conclusion

I’ve gone into a lot of detail here because I think readers benefit more from knowing precise information they can compare against their own experience, rather than the idealized stories people are paid to sell. My situation is crystal clear: I try to earn the miles and points I need for the trips I want to take, and since March, I haven’t wanted to take any trips. On the contrary, I’ve wanted to keep my household safe, and keep my friends and family safe, so I pivoted my strategy towards earning cash back I can “redeem” today, rather than miles and points that I wouldn’t be able to use for 12-18 months.

As the vaccine enters widespread distribution, it’s time to start thinking about pivoting back. That means ramping up my most useful currency, Chase Ultimate Rewards, while also starting to pay renewed attention to Alaska Airlines, Hyatt, and Hilton earning opportunities.

Why are some Visa cards dropping collision damage waiver coverage?

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As I tweeted out on Friday, I was surprised to get an e-mail from US Bank telling me that my Flexperks Travel Rewards card would no longer have “Auto Rental Collision Damage Waiver and Extended Warranty Protection” as of February 1, 2021. Today I saw Doctor of Credit report that several additional Visa cards will be dropping the same or related benefits.

All of which made me wonder, what the heck is going on?

Virtually all credit and debit cards include rental car collision damage waivers

I’ve written extensively about the nuances of rental car insurance in the past, since it’s a particularly complicated issue for folks who don’t own their own cars. That’s because car owners typically have liability insurance that covers them whether or not they’re driving their own cars, while non-car owners have to patch together liability (you hit somebody) and collision (you hit a tree, or an uninsured driver hits you) coverage.

Since most travel hackers are sufficiently well-to-do to own at least one vehicle, rental car insurance is typically put in terms of the collision damage waiver coverage when you pay for a rental car with your credit or debit card, and is framed in terms of “primary” versus “secondary” coverage, the difference being that secondary coverage kicks in after your car-owner insurance, leaving you potentially subject to penalty premia going forward, while primary coverage sidesteps your preexisting insurance.

This is all extremely boring, since virtually all credit and debit cards offer at least secondary rental car collision damage waivers. All you really need to know is to decline the collision damage waiver coverage offered by the rental car company when you check in.

Until February!

Rethinking value?

The main reason credit and debit cards offer collision damage waiver coverage is that it’s so cheap to provide: most people don’t get into rental car accidents most of the time, most people who do get into rental car accidents have their own insurance coverage, and most rental cars aren’t that expensive. It’s basically the Gerber Life Insurance of benefits: you make a lot of people feel good about their life decisions without ever having to pay out a claim. Paying out the occasional claim to replace a bare-bones Toyota Camry isn’t even a blip on Visa’s balance sheet.

Of course, the flip side is that people who never use a benefit are unlikely to appreciate it, no matter how cheap it is to provide. So theoretically the offer of “ID Navigator Powered by NortonLifeLock and Postmates benefits” to replace collision damage waiver coverage might be more immediately tangible to some current Visa cardholders.

But let’s not kid ourselves: that’s almost certainly not what’s going on.

Changing processors

The most obvious explanation for what’s going on is that US Bank and some related entities (e.g. “Elan Financial Services,” a wholly owned subsidiary of US Bank) are switching credit card processors. Unlike many banks, US Bank has continued to issue both Visa and American Express cards, so I assume that the current transitional period is going to be used to move some or all cardholders from Visa to American Express (or vice versa!).

If you rely on credit card collision damage waiver coverage, be careful!

By February 1 ,2021, we’ll have a much clearer view of the situation. Was the announcement of the discontinuation of rental car insurance benefits a holding pattern while the benefits for revamped cards are negotiated and rolled out, or a permanent devaluation? It’s an interesting question, but not an actionable one.

The actionable question is, what credit or debit card are you going to use to book your next car rental? If you rely on the collision damage waiver coverage provided by your bank, make sure your bank actually offers it.

Grocery store rewards datapoints at the end of a lucrative few weeks

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The last few months have seen a more or less continuous stream of offers supercharging the value of grocery store manufactured spend:

  • Between September 4 and 10 Green Dot cards earned 5 points per dollar at Giant/Martin’s/Stop and Shop;

  • In quick succession Safeway offered $10 off $400 in Visa, MasterCard, and then again Visa gift cards;

  • Then Giant stepped up and offered triple points on Visa gift cards, double points on MasterCard gift cards, and 10 points per dollar spent on Happy gift cards;

  • And in the meantime, Safeway began offering 8 points per dollar spent on Happy gift cards (and unlike Safeway’s Visa and MasterCard offers, the coupon can be used an unlimited number of times on a single account).

Giant versus Safeway (1): Giant

Obviously a lot of people live in areas with convenient access only to Safeway or to Giant/Stop and Shop/Martin’s stores, so the decision of which offers to focus on has been made for them, but I do want to draw attention to a few important nuances for folks with access to both programs.

Giant’s program is the simplest, with points redeemable for either groceries or gas in 100 point increments, Each 100 points is worth $1 in groceries or a $0.10 per gallon discount on gas at participating service stations (i.e., worth $1 when filling a 10-gallon tank, $2 when filling a 20-gallon tank, etc).

Importantly, when redeeming points for grocery rewards, you do not need to redeem them or spend them in a single transaction, and you can make multiple redemptions in order to “fill up” your grocery rewards balance. As long as you shop at Giant at least every few months, this drastically reduces the risk of breakage, since you can fill up and spend down your grocery rewards balance however you choose.

Finally, there are three quirks of the Giant program that are worth being aware of:

  • First, in my experience grocery rewards cannot be used to pay for alcohol (this presumably applies to tobacco products as well, though that’s just a guess);

  • Second, they can’t be used to cover any taxes on the transaction. In my experience this creates the kind of bizarre situation where if you just buy fresh produce (untaxed here) then your grocery rewards can be used to cover your entire purchase, but if you throw in a pack of toilet paper (taxed here), you’re left owing some trivial amount on the transaction. Unless they’re getting a steep discount on interchange fees, it’s hard to imagine they’re paying Visa less than $0.20 on a $0.20 credit card charge. Obviously that’s not my problem, but it’s a reminder not to leave your wallet at home if you plan to purchase taxable items with grocery rewards. Your grocery rewards balance also can’t be used on gift cards.

  • Third, purchases that are fully covered by grocery rewards do earn additional flexible rewards points. This isn’t normally a big deal since unless you’re a caterer or something you probably aren’t earning more than a dollar or two a month in rewards from your regular grocery spend. Nonetheless, Giant does periodically offer bonus point earning on the purchase of various items, and the fact that you can redeem grocery rewards while earning additional flexible points may over time modestly increase the overall return on your manufactured spend.

It sounds obvious because it is, but also remember that when Giant is offering bonus points on gift cards with activation fees, the fees themselves do not earn bonus points, while when they offer bonus points on gift cards without activation fees, like the recent Happy gift card promotion, the entire value of the card earns bonus points.

Safeway versus Giant (2): Safeway

I started with Giant because their program is simpler, but obviously there are some times when and some people for whom Safeway is the only game in town, so it’s worth doing a quick look at “just for U” as well, if only by way of comparison.

While Giant flexible rewards points can be converted directly into grocery rewards, Safeway adds an intermediate currency: each time you earn 100 just 4 U points, they’re converted into what they call “Rewards.” Your Rewards balance can be “passively” redeemed by using it at participating gas stations (as with Giant, 100 points/1 Reward is worth $0.10 off per gallon), or “actively” redeemed for groceries (the equivalent of Giant grocery rewards).

Here’s the finicky part: 1 Reward (100 just 4 U points) is not consistently worth $1 off groceries, which makes it slightly more complicated to directly compare Giant and Safeway promotions. Take, for example, the current Giant promotion for 10 flexible rewards points per dollar spent on Happy gift cards, and the current Safeway promotion for 8 just for U points per dollar spent on the same cards. We know the purchase of a $500 Happy gift card will earn 5,000 flexible rewards points, worth $50 off a future shopping trip, while the purchase of the same card at Safeway will earn just 4,000 just for U points, worth 40 Rewards.

Redeemed one at a time, those 40 Rewards could be used for $40 off a grocery bill. But Safeway allows the redemption of multiple Rewards at increased value: 7 Rewards can be redeemed for $10 off, meaning 35 rewards can be redeemed for the same $50 in groceries, and the remaining 5 redeemed for another $7. The Safeway promotion is actually slightly more lucrative at the margin, despite the lower earning rate!

Obviously promotions at the two chains don’t always overlap, so it’s not like you always have the choice between more and less lucrative versions of the same promo, but when they do, make sure you’re calculating your return properly.

Finally, a few more notes on Safeway’s program:

  • Unlike Giant’s flexible rewards which allow you to flexibility build up and spend down a grocery rewards balance, Safeway Rewards redemptions are of the traditional coupon form of “$10 off your next purchase of $10 or more.” This is a time-honored method of encouraging customers to buy more than necessary in order to “make sure” their purchase triggers the coupon, but as long as you’re buying stuff you need at prices that are fair I don’t see any great harm in it.

  • Safeway’s terms exclude using Rewards for the purchase of “all fluid items in the refrigerated dairy section—including fluid dairy substitutes,” and states that “[s]ales tax payments and redemption value deposits are not purchases and are not eligible to earn points.” While I’m sure the tax and bottle deposit terms are enforced, I do not believe the exclusion of refrigerated liquid dairy products is, although if anyone knows for sure feel free to leave your datapoints in the comments.

  • Finally, Safeway Rewards can be redeemed for one-off free items. These are mostly generic or own-brand items (3 Rewards can be redeemed for a free 24-ounce “Signature Cafe Soup”) with value that mostly falls in line with the value when redeemed for groceries (the same 3 Rewards are worth $4 in groceries), but you might see some interesting high-value redemptions rotate through: 4 Rewards can be redeemed for $7 in the Meat Department, which gives a significantly higher value per Reward even than the maximum redemption of 7 Rewards for $10. But those high-value one-off redemptions are relatively rare, and maximizing your Rewards in multiples of 7 will typically be the most efficient way to redeem them.

Conclusion

Although I’ve jokingly referred to travel hacking over the years as a kind of extreme couponing, until this year I really never bothered to learn anything about the actual practice of couponing. Hell, I did most of my grocery shopping at places like Whole Foods that don’t even offer coupons!

But then we stopped traveling, and then I lost my job, and it turns out I was right all along: everything I ever learned about getting free travel applies equally well to getting free groceries!

On a more serious note, for folks who do have the ability to earn more in free groceries than they’ll ever want or need (while earning travel rewards on the side, of course), there are a lot of organizations, from food pantries to diaper banks, that are seeing more demand for their services than anytime since the Great Depression. In ordinary times those organizations benefit more from the cash donations they can use to buy deeply discounted goods from wholesalers, but most of them also accept in-kind donations, so it’s well worth considering calling around a few local organizations to see what they need most, and whether you can get it to them for free, whether it’s through Safeway, Giant, or whatever grocery store rewards program is operating near you.

Galveston Revisited: my interview with the head of Galveston Park Board

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Back in May, Sam and Robert of the Milenomics Squared podcast (and a slew of other activities in and around the world of travel hacking) invited me to join their network and record a biweekly podcast. As a reminder for folks who missed the initial announcement, there are two ways to get new and archived episodes of The Manifesto:

And of course you can sign up for both if you want to listen to all the shows on the network and receive my Newsletters: they’re two great tastes that taste great together!

Try before you buy: a free sample episode

Now that I’ve had a chance to get my sea legs as a podcaster, as a treat we’re making lucky episode 13 free for non-subscribers to listen to. This episode is an interview I recorded in September with Kelly de Schaun, the head of the Galveston Park Board. As long-time readers know, I have a somewhat fraught relationship with the island of Galveston, so one of my first ideas when the podcast launched was to hear the other side of the story: what do people who love Galveston love about it? The interview took a while to schedule, but Kelly did not disappoint and we had what turned out to be a fantastic conversation.

You can download or listen to the episode on the web on the Milenomics website, or find it through Apple Podcasts on the Milenomics Squared no-annual-fee feed. If you already subscribe to The Manifesto dedicated feed or Milenomics Squared premium feed, you should already be seeing it there.

I hope you enjoy listening to the episode as much as I did recording it. And if you aren’t a subscriber already, please consider subscribing to one (or both!) of our projects for more great content like this.

Foreign exchange products: TransferWise and Revolut

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As long-time readers know, I listen to a lot of podcasts, and so I end up hearing a lot of podcast ads. A few months ago, I started hearing ads for a new international payment service called TransferWise. As someone who has occasionally needed to send money overseas for things like tuition, and receive money from abroad for things like voice acting work, I’m familiar with how complicated and expensive the process traditionally is. Of course, people who send monthly or weekly remittances abroad pay even higher fees, as a percentage of each transaction.

Then today Doctor of Credit wrote about another similar service, albeit one with a slightly different business model. I’m not sure what has caused this outbreak of new streamlined international payment services, whether it’s less strict enforcement of anti-money-laundering laws or a new central bank agreement on currency conversions, but the products certainly appear easier and more transparent, if not cheaper, than traditional money transfer services.

I did reach out to TransferWise’s PR department to schedule an interview for my podcast, The Manifesto, but haven’t heard back from them. In the meantime, I did a little research and wanted to share some thoughts on these new products.

TransferWise

Sending Money

TransferWise’s main selling point is its transparent up-front pricing. All you have to do is create a free account to see the exact conversion rate and fee you’ll pay to send any amount between any two currencies. For example, to pay the 22,900 Czech koruna tuition fee at the Olomouc Summer School of Slavonic Studies, you will pay a $3.13 ACH debit fee and $6.46 to TransferWise:

You can send money by entering your recipient’s local bank account details (e.g., the Czech bank account details of a recipient of Czech koruny, the IFSC code for an Indian recipient of rupees, etc.), IBAN number, or other destination-dependent information.

Receiving money through TransferWise is slightly more complicated, and varies depending on whether you’re configuring a business or personal account.

TransferWise Business Accounts

Setting up a business account to receive money is relatively simple:

First, you need to set up a “multi-currency account.” Unlike sending money, which is allowed with a free registration, receiving money requires a (one-time, I believe) payment of $31 to receive bank details for 7 “local” foreign currency accounts:

Note that these are not the only currencies you can receive funds in; rather, these are the seven currencies you receive local bank details for. If you’re being paid by a client in New Zealand, it may be cheaper or more convenient for them to send money to a New Zealand bank than to a US or British bank, for example. You should be able to provide those bank details to anyone in any country to receive money, but any inbound transfer will be converted to the currency of the bank whose details you provide.

TransferWise Personal Accounts

Setting up TransferWise personal accounts to receive money is a little more cumbersome, although should be slightly cheaper in practice. That’s because instead of paying a single flat fee to receive your bank details for all seven local currencies, you instead have to make an initial deposit into each currency you want bank details for. The amounts for each currency vary slightly so I’ll simply list them here:

  • Euro: 20 EUR

  • US Dollar: 20 USD

  • Singapore Dollar: 30 SGD

  • Australian Dollar: 30 AUD

  • British Pounds: 20 GBP

  • Hungarian Forint: 6,000 HUF

  • New Zealand Dollar: 30 NZD

If you already have an external account denominated in a given currency, then you can make a same-currency transfer for a nominal fee. If you are making a deposit from a different-currency account (e.g. making a EUR deposit funded with a USD account) you’ll also have to pay TransferWise’s conversion fee. While this is a bit cumbersome, I don’t think there’s anything necessarily nefarious going on here: for personal use, most people probably only need a foreign currency account in a single currency, for example someone with relatives in Europe or Britain may only want to move money between USD and EUR or GBP, and so ends up saving money by making an unnecessary “deposit” into their account compared to paying to open up 6 additional accounts they’ll never use.

One obvious reason you might set up a TransferWise account in your home currency is to receive payments, international or domestic, without revealing your “real” bank account information to the payer, especially if you’re receiving payments from an untrusted source or simply a country with weaker bank privacy and security standards than your own. Most of us have throwaway bank or credit union accounts we can use for those purposes, but most US banks still charge fees when you receive international payments.

If you receive frequent or, especially, small international payments, a TransferWise account may make sense as a payment target since receiving money is free (oddly the help page appears to be out of date and lists “USD, GBP, EUR, AUD, NZD, and PLN” as the currencies you can receive for free — they do not offer Polish local bank details, and do offer Hungarian and Singapore local bank details). You can then make a “withdrawal” by sending your total balance to your regular US bank account for a nominal fee (for example, $4.23 for an outbound transfer of $1,000).

TransferWise Debit Card

Finally, personal TransferWise customers can order a debit card (for a $9 fee), which has two purported benefits. First, if you spend money in a currency you have in your account, then the money is deducted from that account without charging a currency conversion fee. In other words, if you are planning to travel to Europe, you can move money into your EUR account ahead of time and not pay foreign transaction or foreign currency fees. Second, if you spend money in a currency you don’t have in your account, you pay TransferWise’s conversion fees and get their conversion rate, but still avoid those foreign transaction and foreign currency fees. Most, but not all, premium credit cards no longer charge those fees, but some still do, and most no-annual-fee credit cards do, so it’s not hard to imagine people for whom a $9 TransferWise debit card might offer real savings, compared to their other options.

The third, unadvertised benefit of the TransferWise debit card is a way to reduce the cost of withdrawing money from your TransferWise balance. Buying a single $0.88 Walmart money order, or even two $0.99 money orders from Western Union, will end up well below the $4.23 TransferWise wants to charge for the same $1,000 withdrawal. TransferWise wants you to keep money in their ecosystem, and you want to get it out. The debit card appears to offer one easy way out.

Revolut

Doctor of Credit’s writeup of Revolut was focused on its function as a high-interest savings vehicle, for obvious reasons, but it’s actually slightly more interesting than that. Like TransferWise, it’s actually a platform for making both same-currency and foreign-currency payments, especially to other Revolut users. You can imagine the pitch meeting: “Venmo for the globe-trotting elite,” “PayPal for the rootless cosmopolitan.”

Revolut Savings

Revolut’s pays interest based on two calculations: free accounts earn 0.25% APY, and paid accounts earn a base 0.5% APY, with an additional 4.5% APY paid on the amount in your savings account up to the amount you spent on your debit card that month. The obvious problem with this scheme is that at face value it seems to require you to have access to twice as much money as you plan to earn interest on. After all, you need the same amount of money in your Revolut spending account as you do in the savings account in order to earn the maximum interest on the latter balance. There are two reasons that’s not quite right.

First, let’s look at a brute force calculation of how much you earn and pay when you attempt to maximize your Revolut interest as a traditional high-interest checking account, like those I’ve written about many times in the past. Using some round numbers:

  • A $10,000 savings balance earning 5% APY will earn $512.67 in interest per year;

  • 12 months in the “Premium” plan will cost $119.88 in monthly fees;

  • In order to earn 5% APY on your balance, you’ll need to spend $10,000 per month on the Revolut debit card (technically slightly more over time as your savings balance grows). At $0.88 per $1,000 Walmart money order, this comes to a total of $8.80 per month, or $105.60 per year (obviously use your own liquidation costs in your own calculations).

That gives a total annual interest income of $287.19, or an APY of 2.87%. That’s not great. Not terrible, but not great. Note that in this calculation that you don’t need to keep the money in the spending account all month: you only need it available on the day you make your money order purchase. In fact, there’s no reason you couldn’t transfer your savings balance to your spending balance on the first of every month, spend it all, then redeposit it immediately and transfer it back to savings. You’d miss a few days of interest each month, but you’d be earning interest on the same pool of money.

Second, since qualification is monthly, you can use Revolut savings opportunistically to earn a high interest rate on large balances you can only pay with a debit card. The obvious example is a school which allows semester bills to be paid fee-free with a debit card, but that adds fees for credit card payments. Moving $40,000 to a Revolut savings account on the first of the month, and then making a $40,000 tuition payment at the end of the month, should meet all the requirement to trigger 5% APY on your entire balance. Those with especially large estimated tax payments might also decide to trigger a 5% APY on their payments just 4 months of the year instead of all 12.

Note that by my reading of their terms, you can’t easily swap in and out of paid plans, so if you plan to try something like this, you should commit to it for the whole year or you’ll have to pay at least a $19.98 “break fee,” plus any months of unused benefits. They do claim to offer a discount for annual memberships but I couldn’t easily find any public information about it.

Revolut Travel Benefits

Remember above I mentioned that Revolut was supposed to be a payment app for hip globetrotters, and paid plans come with a number of benefits that might offset their obnoxious fees. Unfortunately, their US site doesn’t provide many details about them. Here are the ones that jumped out at me, in no particular order:

  • Lounge Key Pass. This is, near as I can tell, virtually identical to Priority Pass, in that it offers “discounted” entry into participating lounges, and the participating lounges more or less perfectly overlap with Priority Pass. Just as with Priority Pass, it virtually never makes any sense to use this benefit, unless you can use…

  • SmartDelay. Ordinarily, Lounge Key Pass membership gives you access to participating lounges and restaurants at a cost of $25 per person. “Premium” and “Metal” Revolut subscribers get free access to those same lounges and restaurants for themselves and one (Premium) or three (Metal) guests after their flight has been delayed for one hour. Essentially, you enter your flight information into the Revolut app, and if the flight has not departed one hour after scheduled, you receive the free Lounge Key passes. The passes do not have to be used in the airport you’re delayed in, but they do expire after 48 hours. Any possible mischief here is left as an exercise for the reader.

  • Overseas medical, delayed baggage and delayed flight insurance. These have the potential to be extremely valuable benefits…but the website provides no information about the terms and conditions of the benefits.

Conclusion

In my casual research, I gathered that despite its primitive website and missing language about important benefits, Revolut is actually a fairly established company, with many satisfied and not-so-satisfied customers in Europe and elsewhere. Having just planted their flag in the United States, they’re no doubt still getting their ducks in a row regarding many of the benefits they claim or pretend to offer, and that naturally makes me hesitate to take any of their promises at face value.

TransferWise is a more traditional Silicon Valley startup (they brag about having Peter Thiel as an investor, which I would reconsider were I in charge of marketing), but I appreciate their upfront pricing and extremely functional interface.

Finally, I want to touch on something that I thought about while looking at both companies: foreign currency diversification. Traditionally, retail foreign currency trading is done using either very short-term financial derivatives, or foreign-currency-denominated bonds, rather than buying and holding foreign currencies directly. Obviously a lot of us have piles of euros, koruny, and lats lying around at home leftover from previous trips, but it’s relatively complicated (not to say dangerous) to invest in foreign currencies directly, since consumer US bank accounts don’t hold foreign currency deposits.

Both of these companies allow retail investors to spread their cash across multiple foreign currencies with low exchange fees and, in the case of TransferWise at least, no monthly fees. For folks uncertain about the shape of the future economy, I can see potential value in distributing some amount of cash across a range of foreign currencies, not in the belief that any one of them will collapse or any one will skyrocket in value, but on the chance that one or all of them could do one or both.

TransferWise does have a referral program but the rules are so convoluted I won’t bother sharing my personal referral link. As I mentioned above, I’m trying to get in touch with their PR team and have asked for a promo code I can share with readers for free multi-currency accounts or something of that nature that might actually provide some value.

The Chase Freedom family of cards: it's (still) all about quantity

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In a case of impeccable timing, at the beginning of this week I was high in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Shenandoah National Park, far from cell service, and so was barely aware of Chase’s announcement of a shakeup of their Freedom credit card lineup until we returned to sea level. This gave me the great fortune of being able to read what everybody else thought before weighing in myself.

The new Chase Freedom lineup

Just so we’re all on the same page, this is what the Chase Freedom credit card lineup will look like after September 15, 2020:

None of the cards has an annual fee, and all earn non-flexible Ultimate Rewards points, which require an annual-fee card (Sapphire Preferred or Reserve, or Ink Bold, Plus, or Preferred) to transfer to travel partners.

Load up on Freedom cards now

Looking at the table above, it’s obvious that the Freedom Flex is strictly superior to the Freedom card: there exist categories where it has a higher earning rate, and no categories where it has a lower earning rate. That’s the very definition of strict superiority: there are no tradeoffs.

And that’s why you should get as many Freedom cards as possible right now, before the card is closed to new applications and, presumably, product changes on September 14.

Since each Freedom (and soon, Freedom Flex) card has its own $1,500 limit on quarterly bonus spend, the best strategy has always been to have as many as possible through product changes. Applying for Chase Slate cards for their $0 balance transfer fees and 0% introductory APR offers and Chase Sapphire Preferred and Reserve cards for their signup bonuses, then requesting a product change to the Freedom, is a popular strategy for accumulating additional Freedom cards and additional bonused spending capacity.

So if you still have any Slate or Sapphire cards you’re been procrastinating on, this is a wake-up call to request your product change as soon as possible.

Nick at Frequent Miler suggests that product changes to the Freedom Flex will be possible despite the fact that the Freedom Flex will be issued as a MasterCard World Elite card and Chase’s existing cards are issued as Visas. If this is true, then you can call in again and request the change once the Freedom Flex goes live. If it turns out not to be the case, waiting in hopes of requesting a product change to the Freedom Flex may leave you trapped in inferior products going forward.

Freedom Flex for new applicants

Moreover, the Freedom Flex is a card that you will want to apply for from scratch, partly because of its $200 (20,000 Ultimate Rewards point) signup bonus, but mainly because of the ability to earn 60,000 Ultimate Rewards points when you spend $12,000 at grocery stores during the first year.

Since the Freedom Flex’s bonused earning on dining and drugstores is unlimited, there’s no reason to carry more than one of the card or prefer it to the Freedom (assuming the cards will share quarterly bonus categories). In that sense, it’s like the Freedom Unlimited: you want to have one, but there’s no particular reason to want more than one.

Conclusion

That’s the strategy I’ll be pursuing: convert my remaining Chase personal credit cards to Freedom cards, which will leave me with a total of 4, then apply for a new Freedom Flex card when the application goes live. Whether that’s the right strategy for you depends on how far above Chase’s limit of 5 total credit card applications in the previous 24 months you are, and whether you ever intend to fall below it.

If you’re so far above “5/24,” or credit card signup bonuses are so essential to your travel hacking strategy, that you decide that the only way you’ll ever get a Freedom Flex is through a product change, I would still recommend not product changing from a Freedom, since those will soon be irreplaceable. Far better to sacrifice a Freedom Unlimited or Sapphire card, as long as you maintain as least one premium Ultimate Rewards card to maintain the flexibility of your points.

Non-owner car insurance

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Non-owner car insurance is one of the least-understood insurance products because it is needed by so few people: most people who drive own a car, and most people who own a car have car insurance. Moreover, even if you don’t own a car but borrow a friend’s car to run the occasional errand, you’re almost certainly covered by their car insurance policy.

Non-owner car insurance thus fills a relatively narrow gap: people who drive often enough to need liability insurance, but not often enough to buy and insure their own car.

Basics of car insurance

Any kind of car insurance policy has four potential components:

  • personal or medical liability: you hit somebody, they have medical bills or certain other expenses, your insurance covers those expenses.

  • property liability: you hit something, cause damage to it, your insurance pays the owner for the damage.

  • uninsured and underinsured motorist: an incident occurs which you are not liable for, but the liable person has too little or no insurance to cover the damage to you or your vehicle, your insurance pays the damages instead.

  • comprehensive or collision: your car hits something or something hits your car, your insurance repairs or replaces your vehicle. “Comprehensive” coverage differs from “collision” coverage by covering repair or replacement in circumstances besides collisions, most importantly including theft, but also things like severe weather damage or other non-collision incidents.

All car insurance policies cover medical and property liability with minimum statutory limits, and usually include uninsured and underinsured motorist coverage as well. Here in DC all three are mandatory, with slightly different minimum limits for each. If you already own an insured vehicle, then your coverage applies when you rent most cars as well.

Comprehensive/collision coverage is different because unlike the other three, if your vehicle is uninsured, there is no “free rider” problem: if you crash into a wall and the wall is unharmed but your vehicle is totaled, you’re on the hook for the decision to replace your vehicle or not. People who drive older or cheaper cars can and do thus opt out of comprehensive insurance and take their chances, or “self-insure” if you prefer.

Credit card rental car insurance

Virtually all credit cards provide a benefit called something like “Car Rental Loss and Damage Insurance” (American Express) “Auto Rental Collision Damage Waiver” (Chase), or “Secondary Rental Car Collision Coverage” (Discover). The logic here is that all car owners have personal liability, property liability, and uninsured driver insurance, but since some don’t have comprehensive or collision insurance, the credit card will stand in for that fourth leg of the liability stool.

Here credit card bloggers will start to wax about the differences between primary and secondary coverage, but as I’ve written in the past, that distinction only matters if you’re not involved in an accident with another vehicle. If another driver is involved, you’ll have to involve your insurance company anyway, and the benefit of “primary” insurance (keeping the accident “secret”) evaporates.

But what if you don’t own an insured vehicle?

Rental car company insurance

Depending on the rental company and the state, rental cars may already be insured to the minimum required liability and property insurance amounts:

  • According to Avis’s website: “Avis provides liability coverage for all our vehicles as required by local laws. However, in some states, the coverage provided by Avis is only applied after the renter’s personal insurance has been used to cover all that it can.”

  • Hertz claims that: “If renting in Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, New York, South Carolina, Virginia, or West Virginia: Upon signing the Rental Agreement, Hertz provides primary liability protection. However, such protection is generally no more than the minimum limits required by individual state law. See Financial Responsibility Limits by State” (I was not able to find any such page).

Rental car companies are also happy to sell you supplemental insurance, but this insurance is very, very expensive. The rate for a daily liability insurance supplement at Hertz’s Washington National Airport location is $18.85, which appears to be fairly uniform at the various rental locations I checked (no idea why Portland’s was 7 cents cheaper).

But of course, the reason to carry insurance coverage is not to satisfy the requirements of the law. Insurance is worth paying for if it’s able to protect you against catastrophic losses.

Non-owner car insurance

In the Before Time, my partner and I flew out to Indiana a few times a year for long holiday weekends, and since we didn’t own a car, the supplemental liability insurance was always a pain point. On shorter stays we’d pay it (what’s $15?), on longer stays we’d skip it (who’s got $100 just lying around?).

But since long-distance and air travel are out of the question for the time being, I finally decided to look into non-owner car insurance. The main distinction between non-owner and owner car insurance is simple: the insurance company doesn’t care what vehicle you’re driving, because they’re not responsible for insuring it. Instead, they exclusively cover the personal and property damage you do (and the damage done by uninsured drivers to your vehicle).

Unfortunately, I’ve never found an insurance company willing to offer quotes for non-owner car insurance online. Nerdwallet has a post from over a year ago with the relevant phone numbers for a variety of insurance companies, but that’s the point: they’re phone numbers. Since I happen to already have a renters insurance policy with USAA, I called them first, but I don’t have any reason to believe USAA’s rates are any better or worse than the other options. These rates are purely for the purposes of comparison.

It turned out that the great advantage of non-owner car insurance is that it’s cheap. For a $100,000 per person and $300,000 per accident policy, I was offered a rate of $189.17 for six months (or $31.53 per month). The minimum legal coverage ($25,000 and $50,000) came in a little lower at $24.54 monthly, and what I would call a “supermax” policy of $1 million in personal liability and $500 thousand in property coverage was $47.77 per month.

Conclusion

I’m not here to tell you it’s fun to spend money, or that you should spend money you don’t have to. If you’re an average American travel hacker with an average American car and an average American car insurance policy, this post just doesn’t apply to you.

But for folks who have been overpaying for years or decades for car rental liability insurance by the day, I do want this post to let you know there’s a better, cheaper way.