What is a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage?

The title of this post may sound like a rhetorical question, but I assure you I don't mean it that way. It's a question I've been pondering for a while as I come across weird datapoints from the history of home financing around the world. A 30-year fixed-rate mortgage is maybe best defined by what it is not: it's not a one-year floating-rate mortgage.

What would a one-year floating-rate mortgage look like?

There's no mechanical reason a one-year floating-rate mortgage couldn't exist. At the beginning of the first year, a home-buyer would take out a loan for the purchase price of a house, secured by the house as collateral. They'd make payments throughout the year at whatever the prevailing interest rate was (the borrower and lender could agree on whether payments would fluctuate or whether payments would be fixed and the amount of interest and principal paid would fluctuate), and then at the end of the first year, the home-buyer could either repay the remaining principal or take out another one-year floating rate mortgage to repay the balance of the original one.While there's no mechanical reason such a system couldn't exist, it has some obvious drawbacks:

  • Vulnerability to changes in house value. In a rising housing market, such a system would be the equivalent of annual cash-out refinancing. In a falling housing market, it would be an annual cash call, since the borrower would have to pay the previous year's lender the amount borrowed, even if the next year's lender was unwilling to lend the full amount given the lower value of the house in year 2.
  • Uncertain total repayment term or uncertain payments. In a period of rising interest rates, each year the borrower would repay less and less of their loan's principal (or face rising monthly payments). That means it might take many more than 30 years to fully own a home, even if at the beginning of each year you intend to pay off one thirtieth of your remaining principal. Uncertain monthly payments also would make it difficult to plan your expenses in advance.
  • Borrower credit risk. Even if economy-wide interest rates remained steady, the interest rate an individual borrower might be forced to pay could vary from year to year as their personal credit profile changes. A higher income might lower their monthly payment in one year, while a lost job might make it impossible to roll over their loan at all — even if they have the next year's worth of payments saved up in cash!
  • Lender risk. In case of an economy-wide shock to the credit market, it might not be possible to refinance a loan at all, even for the most credit-worthy borrowers. Mass foreclosures and evictions based on banking sector malfeasance would be a constant risk in an economy of one-year mortgages.
  • Huge transaction costs. Presumably such a system would create streamlined refinancing offers (perhaps even interest rate discounts after a certain number of years) but verifying the credit and income of a borrower and the value of a home each year would still require an enormous amount of work, and create enormous scope for human error.

That said, there are some obvious advantages as well, for both borrowers and lenders:

  • Lower interest rates. If lenders didn't have to squint at the horizon and forecast the future trajectory of interest rates, they would be able to offer much lower interest rates today. You can see this in the interest rate differential between 30-year and 15-year fixed-rates mortgages. It would be reasonable to expect the rate to be even lower for one-year floating-rate mortgages.
  • Less prepayment risk. When a lender makes a mortgage loan today, they're forced to take into account the risk that if interest rates fall their customers are likely to repay their loans early and refinance into a lower-rate mortgage. That creates an unpredictable, one-way risk for the lender and for the buyers of mortgage securities. Rolling one-year loans would drastically reduce that risk, since few people would be willing to go through the hassle of refinancing a loan mid-year.
  • Reduce borrower debt. Since each year borrowers would only borrow the amount they needed to repay the balance of the previous year's loan, they could use annual savings to reduce the amount borrowed each year. This is the same logical process as accelerating payments on a 30-year mortgage, but the annual refinancing process might provide a sense of immediacy or urgency to the process, or simply given borrowers a chance to look at their household assets and expenses.
  • Increase home equity. Lenders would presumably insist on large down payments in order to shield themselves from the risk of a decline in the house's value between the time they make a loan and the time the borrower seeks another. Much higher home equity might contribute to fewer foreclosures and evictions in general.

A 30-year fixed-rate mortgage is a one-year floating-rate mortgage with a bunch of riders

That brings me back to the question, what is a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage? In the same way that a delayed variable annuity is an immediate fixed annuity with a bunch of riders on the contract, I think of 30-year fixed-rate mortgages as one-year floating-rate mortgages with a bunch of riders:

  • instead of a floating interest rate, a fixed interest rate;
  • instead of variable payments, fixed payments;
  • instead of annual credit assessment, assessment just once at the beginning of 30 years;
  • instead of having mandatory cash calls for any change in your home equity at the end of each year, never having a cash call for declines in your home equity;
  • instead of being vulnerable to changes in the supply of credit, being guaranteed the same terms as long as you stay current on your payments.

Of course, just as with a delayed variable annuity, each of these riders comes at a cost, generally in the form of higher interest rates.

Once you know you're paying for each rider, you could decide which ones are worth paying for

What got me thinking about this most recently was seeing the statistic that the median length of tenure in single-family owner-occupied housing is 15 years (6 years for multi-family condo owners). In other words, 50% of single-family homeowners move before spending 15 years in their home. But between 85% and 90% of mortgages are for 30 years. That means 35-50% of home buyers are paying for riders they don't use: fixed interest rates and payments and credit insurance for the second 15 years of their mortgage.That begs the question: do the 50% of homeowners who move within 15 years know in advance they'll move within 15 years? If so, they're overpaying for those 15 years; they'd be strictly better off with a 15 year mortgage (even if that meant a balloon payment in year 15, by which point they plan to sell the house anyway). If not, what they're paying for is an insurance policy so that if they end up belonging to the 50% that stays longer than 15 years, they won't have to renegotiate new terms and be susceptible to intervening changes in the credit market.That insurance is worth something, without a doubt. But the price is higher interest payments and lower principal payments during each of the first 15 years. By saving that money instead, home buyers could "self-insure" against the same risk, with the potential upside of being able to keep the savings if they do, in fact, move before then.

The problem with the federal housing finance agencies is that they subsidize one particular set of riders

On the one hand, the idea of securitizing standardized mortgages and making it possible for investors to select the particular borrower and loan characteristics they are looking for while freeing up bank capital to underwrite and issue new loans is a fairly reasonable idea. On the other hand, the private sector has demonstrated absolutely no interest in doing so, and it was left up to the federal government to create the so-called "government-sponsored enterprises," or GSE's (the failure of the GSE's in 2008-2009 suggests one possible explanation of the reluctance of the private sector to undertake this enterprise).The problem is not that the government has decided to subsidize homeownership. The problem is that doing so has made offering unsubsidized mortgages uneconomical, since mortgages that don't qualify for sale and securitization have to be held on the lender's books or privately securitized (i.e. without an implicit government guarantee), tying up that capital until the loan is repaid, while qualified mortgages can be immediately sold and the same money lent again to another borrower, with a new set of origination fees piled on top.Freddie Mac has this fairly hilarious document signed by their "VP Chief Economist" Sean Becketti explaining that:

"The considerable benefits of the 30-year fixed rate mortgage to consumers are beyond question. However, this type of mortgage isn't a natural fit for lenders. All the features that benefit the consumer—long term, fixed interest rate, and the option to prepay the loan without penalty—create serious headaches for lenders. As a result, the federal government created Freddie Mac and other institutions that allow lenders to hand these headaches over to the capital markets, where sophisticated portfolio managers have the tools and expertise to manage the investment risks of the 30-year mortgage."

Now, 15-year (and shorter) fixed-rate and floating-rate mortgages are still available, and under the right circumstances may even be qualified mortgages for securitization purposes. But balloon loans, which require repayment or refinancing in the final year of the mortgage, are decidedly verboten. In other words, for a mortgage to be qualified for GSE securitization, it has to be repayable in equal payments over the term of the mortgage, which in practice forces people who have no intention of staying in their home for 30 years into 30-year mortgages — and paying the correspondingly higher interest rates for each of the years they actually remain in the home.

Disclosure

I own 50 common stock shares of Freddie Mac and of Fannie Mae. I've lost about $150 on them since I bought them, but remain hopeful that the current administration will sell out the American public by allowing the GSE's to recapitalize and start paying dividends again, in which case I'll make a fortune.

The low-hanging fruit of personal finance

On Friday I wrote about how people making payments in excess of the minimum to student loans need to make sure their student loan servicers have instructions to credit the excess payments to their highest-interest-rate loans first. It's the kind of simple measure you can take to save money on student loan interest, and all it takes is a single letter to put the appropriate instructions in place.It's also the kind of simple measure I'm confident virtually no student loan borrower takes.That got me to thinking: what are the other low-hanging fruit of personal finance? What are the simplest things you can do to improve your financial well-being, broadly considered?Here are a few more that I came up with.

Maximize the interest your cash earns

I love cash. I don't think you need to justify holding cash by calling it an "emergency fund" or pretending to save for a house down payment or car repairs or whatever. Cash is great and it doesn't need any excuses. But if you're going to hold cash, you should want to earn the highest possible return on it. That means ignoring the "high-interest" savings accounts offered by Discover, American Express, or your local bank and going straight to the highest-interest checking accounts, like the Consumers Credit Union Free Rewards Checking account.You can earn 3.09% APY on up to $10,000 by buying 12 $0.50 Amazon credit reloads each month with your Consumers Credit Union debit card.If you want to earn even more interest on even more money, you can sign up for one of the Consumers Credit Union Visa credit cards and earn 4.59% APY on up to $20,000 by making the same 12 Amazon credit reloads and spending $1,000 on the credit card each month.The Amazon credit reloads take 5-7 minutes on the first of each month. How's that for low-hanging?

Be fully invested (in something)

When it comes to investment accounts, particularly accounts that feature tax-free or tax-deferred growth, you will probably be ill-served leaving large amounts of cash in your account's default settlement fund. Even if you don't want to invest in equities at their current or future valuations, you can direct contributions to a short-term inflation-protected bond fund, or even just a money market fund offering slightly higher yields than your brokerage's default settlement fund. As with student loan interest, it's the kind of small election that has the ability to earn you much higher returns with virtually no effort.

Use the right credit cards

My other blogging project is dedicated to the very high-hanging fruit of maximizing credit card rewards, but that is a hobby that consumes an enormous amount of time and attention. If you don't want to do that, you don't have to. Instead, you can use these simple rules to pluck the lowest-hanging credit card fruit:

  • Earn at least 2% cash back on all your purchases.
  • Don't pay foreign transaction fees.
  • Don't pay annual fees.
  • Use balance transfer offers to minimize the interest you pay on ongoing credit card balances.
  • Use introductory financing offers to minimize the interest you pay on new credit card balances.

Debt moralizers will tell you that credit card rewards, balance transfer offers, and introductory financing offers are traps to get you to fall into debt. Maybe they're right!But I don't care whether you're in debt or not, I care whether you're paying interest on your debt or not, and my concern is that most people, most of the time, are paying too much in credit card interest.

Make good behavior easy and bad behavior hard

Behavioral economics is all the rage these days, and the economists are hard at work testing all sorts of rules and defaults to get people to save more, eat better, smoke less, and whatever else they think is best for us. Good luck to them, I suppose.But in your own life, you don't need a marionettist to pull your strings: you can pull your own strings, by automating as much as possible the behavior that you, personally, recognize as good and necessary, and staying out of your own way.Set up automatic contributions to investment accounts. Reinvest automatically. Rebalance quarterly at the most frequent; annually is probably fine. Delete your investment accounts from Mint, Personal Capital, and any other tools you use to track your finances. If seeing your balances bounce up and down is making you exhibit behavior you know to be bad, the answer is as simple as not seeing your balances bounce up and down.If you're a compulsive gambler like me, give yourself a small amount of cash to gamble with using a free trading app like Robinhood. Treat the money as gone as soon as you invest it, and then have fun buying and selling stocks as much as you'd like — especially when you get the temptation to mess with your actual investment portfolio.

Open a solo 401(k) if you have self-employment income

A solo 401(k) is an important tool for self-employed people for a few big reasons:

  • You can make pre-tax employee contributions if your employer doesn't offer a 401(k) at your day job, or if their 401(k) provider offers inferior investment options.
  • You can make pre-tax employer contributions even if you've already maxed out your employee contributions at your day job.
  • You can make post-tax employee Roth contributions if your employer doesn't allow them at your day job.
  • You can choose your own 401(k) custodian if the custodian your employer uses at your day job is terrible.

Now, I agree this may not seem like "low-hanging fruit," but if your small business is an unincorporated sole proprietorship you don't have to actually do anything throughout the year once your solo 401(k) is up and running. While you're calculating your taxes, just figure out how much you need to contribute to your solo 401(k) to get your income where you want it to be, and make the appropriate combination of pre-tax employer and post-tax employee Roth contributions.Things are somewhat more complicated for small business that have made an "S corporation" election, which is one reason I'm more skeptical of S corporation elections than some small business owners.

Trigger your employer's matching 401(k) contributions

This is the most boring of my low-hanging fruit suggestions (which is why it's last), but it's still good advice: if your employer matches any part of your elective 401(k) contributions, make at least the minimum required elective contribution to maximize the employer's match.I don't think much of employer-sponsored 401(k) plans as a rule due to the high-cost, conflicted investment options they frequently offer.On the other hand, I think very highly of free money. If you make at least the contribution necessary to maximize your employer's match, you can leave the money in cash and still walk away with a guaranteed tax-deferred rate of return that's difficult to imagine getting elsewhere.

Conclusion

What's your favorite low-hanging fruit of personal finance, and just how low-hanging do you think it is?I think people have a natural tendency to treat the things they think of as fun and easy as intrinsically fun and easy. It's a tendency that, as you get older, you hopefully start to realize has no connection to reality.So which of my suggestions do you think is preposterously complicated and which is so simple it doesn't even bear mentioning?