Deconstructing a point-to-point hiking tour

[update 8/13/2022: I heard back from the luggage transfer service I mention below and they quoted me a total of £60, substantially less than I guessed from their website]

A popular way to explore the United Kingdom among outdoor enthusiasts and lunatics alike is the hiking tour. The UK is positively saturated with public walking paths and rights-of-way across private property, so the possibilities are almost literally endless. For part of my recent holiday in England and Scotland, we booked a prepackaged 5-day point-to-point hiking tour in the Lake District.

What’s a hiking tour?

There are a number of companies that sell prepackaged tours; the one we happened to book was the “Lake District Short Break” through Macs Adventure. This 5-day tour consisted of 4 nights at 3 different bed-and-breakfasts (the first 2 nights were spent at the same B&B), and 3 days of hiking. The first hike day we made a loop arriving back at our B&B in the evening, and the second two hikes took us to two new towns. On the two days we moved, Macs Adventure arranged to pick up our suitcases in the morning and deliver them at the next town by the time we arrived (this is not particularly impressive, since the towns are only 20 or 30 minutes apart by car, despite being 5 or 6 hours apart by foot). We paid a total of $1290, although it seems the price has gone up since then to $1420 for two adults.

The tour we took is not bookable as a solo traveler (this will become important shortly).

Deconstructing the hiking tour

That’s the trip sold as a single package. But it doesn’t take a genius to see that the package consists of a few discrete parts, which makes it easy to break down the actual value of the package:

  • 4 nights lodging

  • 4 breakfasts for two

  • 2 luggage transfers

  • walking directions / GPS-supported map (built into Macs Adventures’ fairly cumbersome app)

Two nights in the cheapest room at the Brantfell House costs £192 ($233), a night at the Old Water View £120 ($145), and a night at The Beeches £90 ($109), although I was unable to verify that final number with a sample booking.

It seems that all three properties include breakfast with all their rates, so let’s assign that a value of $0 for now.

Macs Adventures obviously doesn’t handle luggage transfers themselves; they sell tours all over the world and aren’t going to own a fleet of minivans in every country. In our case, they contracted our luggage transfers out to Brigantes Walking Holidays and Baggage Couriers. They don’t have prices listed for our exact itinerary, but it appears their minimum charge is around £80 per person, or £160 ($194) for two (I put in a quote request for our exact route and will update this post when or if they get back to me).

Finally, while walking directions are free from a variety of websites and apps, it is nice that Macs curates specific routes for each day, and the downloadable maps (for offline use) and GPS integration are worth something too, so let’s assign that a generous $25 in value.

So the total value provided by Macs Adventures, should you book the component parts separately, is about $706, which is actually somewhat more than the per-person cost of the trip ($645). Of course, that brings us back to the point I highlighted above: this trip can’t be booked for solo travelers, so we paid $1290, or $584 more than the trip would have cost à la carte.

Obviously that’s not to say Macs Adventures made $584 in profit; presumably they negotiate bulk rates with their hoteliers and luggage transfer services, so their per-trip profit is somewhat higher than that.

Other alternatives

Above I broke down how to recreate an existing point-to-point package tour to save money, but there are a few obvious alternatives it’s worth briefly mentioning.

First, we needed a baggage transfer service because we were spending a week in the UK before and after our tour, but if you’re a serious hiker and that’s all you plan to do on your holiday, you can simply pack a backpack with everything you need, and indeed many of the people we passed on the trails had the heavy duty backpacks you’d expect to see on the John Muir or Appalachian trails. In Ambleside I even found a laundromat to wash my first week of clothes, so packing light doesn’t have to mean wearing soiled clothes or washing them in the sink every night.

Alternatively, instead of a point-to-point hiking tour where you check out of one room and into another every day, you can avoid the need for luggage transfers by setting up a base of operations in a town with a variety of nearby trails. And remember, you don’t need to walk all day: on our first walking day we took a ferry to our starting point and then walked back to our B&B. Likewise, there’s no shame in walking out from your B&B and taking a bus or taxi back.

Conclusion

This was our first hiking tour, and it was plugged into the middle of an already-complicated itinerary, so I was grateful that we were able to pay someone to arrange everything for us, and it turned out to be a wonderful time, albeit with a few hiccups we would have encountered either way.

Having said that, we’ll almost certainly never book a packaged tour like this again, since all the tour company did in this case was stitch together pieces that could easily be booked on their own. There are exceptions, like tourist attractions that can only be visited as part of a package tour, but in most cases the savings are significant enough that it’s worth recreating almost any tour simply by breaking it down into its component parts.

Beginner's guide to UK passenger rail

[Note to the reader: in this post I’m using specific examples of specific cities in the UK, but I am not bothering to give any information about them because it’s irrelevant to the post. If you want to know where Saxmundham is, Google is just a keystroke away.]

For the last 3 weeks I’ve been on vacation in the UK, and will be sharing some interesting, valuable, and/or fun lessons I learned along the way. In today’s edition, I want to dump everything I learned about booking and saving money on passenger rail in England and Scotland.

What is Network Rail?

To give a mostly-accurate potted history, the UK nationalized their rail industry after World War II. In the 90’s under New Labour, they privatized the operation of freight and passenger rail, but kept ownership and management of the tracks and stations in a public entity. That public entity is now called Network Rail (it had some other names in the past).

What is National Rail?

National Rail is the public-facing brand of the privatized passenger rail companies. Why National Rail matters is that it operates “underneath” the private operating companies and creates a kind of interoperability between them. This has the potential to be convenient, a bit like the baggage interline agreements that allow airlines to check bags through on connections operated by other carriers, although there are some important pitfalls to watch out for, which I cover below.

What are Railcards?

The second, much more important reason that National Rail matters is that they sell Railcards. There are several different Railcards, but they all operate roughly the same: when you purchase a National Rail ticket, select which Railcard you have, and you’ll receive a discount, usually 1/3 of the price, if the fare is eligible. Virtually all trips after 10 am and on weekends and public holidays are eligible for the discount, as are some trips beginning before 10 am. There are basically 3 buckets Railcards fall into:

  1. Group-based. “Family & Friends” and “Two Together” Railcards provide discounts when traveling in specific group formations.

  2. Age-based. There are Railcards for 16-17 year olds, 16-25 year olds, 26-30 year olds, and seniors.

  3. Status-based. People with certain verified disabilities and veterans of the UK Armed Forces are eligible for status-based Railcards.

These are listed very roughly in order of money-saving potential, and as you can see, most people are eligible for one of these “good” Railcards, with the exception of adults between the ages of 31 and 59 who always travel alone. They are still eligible for the generic Network Railcard, which offers discounts only in “London and the South East.”

Finally, it’s essential to note that you can have more than one Railcard, and use a different Railcard for different trips depending on what generates the most savings.

How do Railcards work?

This is the easy part. Whenever you’re booking a train in England, Scotland, and Wales, you’ll see a dropdown box allowing you to select your Railcard. Here’s an example from Greater Anglia:

The price shown on the booking page will then reflect your Railcard discount. Here’s the exact same trip for 2 adults between London Liverpool Street and Saxmundham before and after applying a “Two Together” Railcard:

As you can see, the Two Together Railcard saves £7.50 on a single short trip. For longer trips, Railcards can pay for themselves in a single reservation. Advance tickets for two adults from London to Glasgow on an Avanti West Coast service, for example, cost £65.60 without a Railcard, and just £43.20 with one. On close-in reservations the savings can be much higher: the same two tickets booked for tomorrow cost £285.20 without a railcard and £188.20 with one!

Most Railcards are good for an entire year, but my Two Together Railcard paid for itself several times over in less than 3 weeks.

The Family & Friends Railcard is the most gimmicky of the Railcards, but offers the most potential savings. Each £30 Railcard can have two named adults; one of those adults must be traveling on any ticket purchased with the Railcard (the Two Together Railcard requires both named people to be traveling on the ticket). Up to 3 additional adults can travel on the ticket. In addition, at least one child aged 15 or younger must be traveling on the ticket. The adults receive the standard 1/3 discount, and the children a 60% discount. A roundtrip ticket on the same Avanti West Coast service as above for 4 adults and 4 children ages 5-15 would cost £314.40 without a Railcard and just £222.40 with one.

Note that children’s tickets in general are pretty cheap; most of the savings being realized here are on the more expensive adult tickets. However, you do need one ticketed child in order to unlock those larger savings on the adult tickets.

Do you really need a Railcard?

Everything I said above is based on the rules laid out in black and white on the Railcard website. In fact, it is not clear to me that you need a Railcard at all in order to realize these discounts. That’s because ticketing is available online, tickets can be picked up at unattended kiosks, and most importantly, British ticket inspectors do not appear to me to care at all about the rules.

Of the 8 trains we took in the UK, our tickets were only inspected 3 times, and not one conductor asked to see my digital Railcard. Like a dumb American I volunteered to show my Two Together Railcard on the first train, but didn’t even bother doing that on the rest. If you lived in the UK and traveled frequently with adult friends and minor children, or with your adult partner, then you may as well buy a Family & Friends or Two Together Railcard since they’re so cheap and the savings are so significant, but if you’re just visiting and taking a train or two, you’re probably safe bluffing it.

Should you book “direct?”

Remember up top when I mentioned that train operators are private companies in the UK? Thanks to National Rail, all or most of the passenger rail companies in Great Britain can sell tickets on each other’s services, and there are no price differences on any of the routes I checked. This is roughly the equivalent of United allowing Delta to sell tickets on United for the same price as United charges when booking directly.

But this does not make the booking channels interchangeable. There are three big differences between the various booking channels.

First, seat reservations. The only trains we took with reserved seats were on the Avanti West Coast line between London and Glasgow, and because I booked our tickets through Greater Anglia (because they operated the first leg of our trip), I was not able to select our seats. If I had booked the ticket directly through Avanti West coast, I would have been able to pick them before even booking the ticket to make sure our seats were together, facing the right direction, etc.

Second, routing. While pricing is uniform across booking channels, unsurprisingly each operator’s routing algorithm works better on routes it actually serves. This came up on our trip when Greater Anglia booked us on an Avanti West Coast train from London to Preston in order to change to a Northern Railway train to Windermere. Plugging the origin and destination into Avanti West Coast directly gives the much preferable change at Oxenholme Lake District. Fortunately, the conductor on our Avanti train told us to just wait until Oxenholme to change, but if the conductor hadn’t asked what our final destination was and taken the trouble to sort us out, we would have tried to change to the slower Northern Railway train earlier than we needed to and risked our connection.

Finally, to circle back to Railcards, while pricing and discounts are uniform, the validation algorithm varies widely in quality, which may work to your benefit. For example, Avanti will (incorrectly) price out a Friends & Family Railcard discount for a reservation with 4 adults and no children, while Greater Anglia’s otherwise much less glossy booking engine will not, instead (correctly) returning pricing for four full-fare adult tickets.

Ground transit add-ons

Depending on your origin and destination, you may be offered the option to prepay for a bus or subway connection at the beginning or end of your trip.

For example, if your train originates in London, you’ll be offered the chance to buy a Travelcard that works on the London Underground and buses on the day of your departure. Unfortunately, the Travelcard costs £14.40 or £20.30, the maximum that can be charged for Zones 1-4 and 1-6, respectively, when using London’s Oyster payment cards. If you travel any amount less than the maximum, you’re overpaying.

On the flip side, arriving in Glasgow on a Railcard ticket lets you pay £2.70 for a PlusBus card that lets you take buses all around Great Glasgow on the day of your arrival, which offers at least a modest discount over an all-day bus pass.

In other words, savings are possible at specific destinations, when you’re purchasing tickets using a Railcard, but don’t assume booking your rail and transit tickets together will automatically save you money.

A final note on routing

I mentioned routing above in the context of the different passenger rail companies’ ticketing engines, but there’s a slightly separate issue that’s worth mentioning: it can be hard to figure out what your origin and destination are even supposed to be, especially when you plan to make connections by bus or taxi instead of rail.

I don’t have an easy solution except brute force: use Google or Apple Maps to search your origin and destination, then narrow in on the pieces operated by National Rail, then plug those routes into a few different operators’ websites, keeping in mind you might need to book legs separately or through different operators in order to get the best available routing and discounts.