Correction: Membership Rewards-HawaiianMiles-Mileage Plan transfers are instant, when they work

Last week I wrote about Alaska Airlines’ announcement that miles could now be transferred back and forth between Mileage Plan and Hawaiian Airlines HawaiianMiles.

I wrote, “it takes a few days to complete the cycle of moving Membership Rewards points to HawaiianMiles and then moving them to Mileage Plan.”

This turns out not to be true. Instead, last week there seems to have been an outage in the connection between American Express Membership Rewards and HawaiianMiles, and transfers were completely failing.

In fact, I noticed at the time I submitted my transfer that my Membership Rewards balance didn’t reflect the trial transfer I initiated, and I didn’t receive a confirmation e-mail. Since it was my first transfer, I assumed that was just how the system worked.

When I submitted an identical transfer a few days later, the miles appeared immediately in my HawaiianMiles account (and I received a confirmation e-mail from American Express). I was then able to instantly transfer the miles to Mileage Plan through their dedicated Points.com portal.

Instant transfers mean there’s less need to speculatively transfer Membership Rewards points to Alaska, and makes it more marginally attractive to wait for another transfer bonus to HawaiianMiles.

Things are looking good for the Membership Rewards-Hawaiian Airlines-Alaska Airlines play

Last month I wrote about one possible use of the world’s most-hoarded, least-useful loyalty currency, American Express Membership Rewards: transferring them to Hawaiian Airlines HawaiianMiles in anticipation of a successful merger with Alaska Airlines and the ability to eventually transfer them to that much more valuable airline currency.

That “eventually” turned out to be sooner than expected, as Alaska announced the details of the loyalty plan connectivity last week, and it’s supposedly already operational through a Points.com backend. I’m currently testing it for myself, since it takes a few days to complete the cycle of moving Membership Rewards points to HawaiianMiles and then moving them to Mileage Plan.

I’ll post an update when the cycle is completed and I’ve confirmed it works as advertised.

Why it matters

The main attraction of this play is that Alaska Airlines miles are extremely valuable for domestic Alaska and American Airlines flights and internationally for flights on the oneworld alliance, but relatively difficult to earn compared to the direct transfer partners of Chase Ultimate Rewards and American Express Membership Rewards.

For the time being, this indirect transfer channel makes them as easy to earn as any direct Membership Rewards transfer partner.

Long-term risks

As is often the case, the two primary risks in this play are moving too fast and moving too slow.

By moving too fast, I mean speculatively transferring millions of Membership Rewards points to Mileage Plan, and then seeing that program devalued over the years it takes you to spend down those miles. I often get 5-6 cents per mile redeeming Mileage Plan miles on short-haul domestic tickets or business class tickets to Europe, but if those redemptions became revenue-based I’d feel silly for sitting on a million miles suddenly worth just a cent each.

By moving too slow, I mean waiting for another transfer bonus to HawaiianMiles in order to stretch your Membership Rewards points even further, while in the meantime the airline’s contract with American Express expires on its own or is broken early, leaving you with a stack of miserable Membership Rewards points instead of a bounty of precious Mileage Plan miles.

How I’m playing it

Like most things in this game, I’m planning to split the difference: I’ll move a couple tens of thousands of Membership Rewards points over every month, waiting to see if another transfer bonus comes along. If it does, I’ll empty out my account immediately, and if it doesn’t, I’ll end up moving over most of balance over the course of the next year anyway. And, of course, I can always speed up or slow down the transfers depending on other transfer opportunities.

Speaking of other transfer opportunities

I did not mention in my early Membership Rewards post transfers to Hilton Honors, which reader Bryan helpfully mentioned in the comments. Especially given the current transfer ratio of 1-to-2.6, if you value Hilton Honors points at 0.5 cents each this is a solid way to get rid of Membership Rewards points. It turns the 4 points per dollar earned on dining spend on a card like the American Express Gold card into a 10.4-point-per-dollar Hilton Honors earning rate.

I get a lot of value from Hilton Honors and spend my points almost as fast as I earn them, so I happily topped up my account during the current transfer bonus. However, unlike Mileage Plan miles, I can easily earn Hilton Honors points through manufactured spend on my American Express Surpass card, so I didn’t feel any urgency to empty out my Membership Rewards account, even though I know I’d eventually get decent value from the resulting Hilton Honors points.

Successfully liquidating 3rd-party gift cards with CardCash

Gift card reselling is a manufactured spend technique that sees periodic surges in interest. At its base, it’s is as simple as any technique: buy gift cards at a big enough discount, or with enough of an earning bonus, and sell them at a small enough discount to make the points you walk away with worth the difference.

Players cycle in and out of this space with some regularity, and then are inevitably washed out by the inherent precarity of this line of business: a single batch of compromised gift cards can wipe out the usually-slim margins and cause an entire enterprise to tip into insolvency.

Revisiting CardCash

Checking back through my e-mail, it looks like I first used CardCash to liquidate Hewlett Packard gift cards back in 2016 when it was possible to generate unlimited points and cash by recycling them. I hadn’t used CardCash since, and while I didn’t remember having any problems with them back then, I didn’t even know if the site was still around.

Fortunately, it still is, and I was able to successfully use them to liquidate some Adidas gift cards I purchased during a recent promotion.

Bonus Safeway 4 U points on Adidas gift cards

Most weeks, the grocery stores around me run promotions for discounts or bonus points on gift card purchases. The promotions are usually for third-party gift cards, although last week Giant ran a formerly-common, now-rare promotion for bonus points on Visa prepaid debit cards.

Last week, Safeway ran a global promotion for 10 bonus Safeway for U points per dollar spent on Adidas gift cards. Since third-party gift cards usually earn one Safeway for U point per dollar, this meant you could earn 5500 points (55 Rewards) for each $500 Adidas gift card you purchased, plus any credit card rewards you earned on the purchase.

This was a nice combination of a big mainstream retailer (rather than a niche merchant like Top Golf) and a substantial bonus, so I decided to pencil out whether it made sense as a gift card reselling play.

Putting CardCash through its paces

Since it had been so long since I used CardCash, and the promotion lasted all week, I decided to run a few experiments before going all in. Fortunately, CardCash offers the same payout rate on all card denominations, so I first bought two $75 Adidas gift cards (the minimum to trigger the Safeway promotion), and submitted one to CardCash on Wednesday requesting a PayPal payout, and one on Thursday requesting an ACH payout. Both orders were immediately “confirmed” by e-mail, and both were “accepted” on Friday. I received the PayPal payment Friday afternoon and the ACH payment on Monday. The cash payout rate was identical at 80.5%, or $60.38.

With those experiments successfully completed, I was then confident enough to buy three more Adidas gift cards for $500 each.

Alternative redemption options

While CardCash will pay out cash, they also allow you to exchange third-party gift cards for other cards at a higher value. The highest redemption rate available was (and still is as of this writing) Hotels.com gift cards at $446.78, or 89.36% of face value.

I don’t have any special love for Hotels.com, but I do use them periodically when they have competitive rates or cancellation conditions for stays I don’t want to use points on. In fact, I have already booked two upcoming trips that added up to almost exactly the $1340.34 I’d get from swapping out Adidas gift cards. In my case, the Hotels.com gift cards were literally as good as cash to me.

Request for Proof of Purchase/Origin

I submitted my first two $500 cards on Friday and Sunday, and on Monday received an e-mail with the subject line “Request for Proof of Purchase/Origin” and the order number for my Friday order. The e-mail read:

“Thank you for choosing CardCash to sell your gift cards.

“To ensure secure transactions, please reply to this email with proof of purchase/origin for the gift cards you intend to sell. Please choose from the suggested examples or attach any other applicable documentation when replying to this email:

1. “Purchase receipts or invoices with transaction details.

2. “Documentation supporting their legitimacy, such as proof of employee incentives, loyalty rewards, or other valid sources.

3. “Additional details or explanations that provide clarity on how the gift cards were obtained.

“Upon receiving the requested information, our team will review it promptly.

“Providing this information is crucial in maintaining our commitment to a safe and trustworthy platform.”

I e-mail a photo of the card packaging, the back of the gift card, and the Safeway receipt showing the purchase details a little before noon and a little before 1 pm I received both a polite e-mail back and two e-mails with links to my newly-minted Hotels.com gift cards.

My third order was accepted without any additional verification.

Doing the math

I value Safeway Rewards in volume at about $2.39 each. They are only worth this much in volume, because more expensive awards also give better value. A single Reward is worth at most a dollar or two, while 7 Rewards are worth around $19.50. The 55 Rewards earned on a $500 Adidas gift card were therefore worth about $131.45 to me.

Selling Adidas gift cards for 80.5% of face value ($402.50) would still be slightly profitable, especially if you have a particularly high-value redemption in mind. But if you value Hotels.com gift cards the same as cash, as I did, then the value proposition becomes much more attractive, as I paid just $53.22 for what I conservatively value at $131.45 in Alaska Airlines miles.

Just 4 U Alaska Airlines redemptions work, for what it's worth

A few months back a number of bloggers reported that Just 4 U rewards (the rewards program of Albertsons grocery stores and its countless sub-brands) could be redeemed for Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan miles.

How it works

The basic mechanism is simple. When a Just 4 U account has a store in Alaska designated as your “preferred store,” then you’ll see the following redemption options:

• 1 Reward: 100 Mileage Plan miles.

• 2 Rewards: 250 miles.

• 3 Rewards: 400 miles.

• 4 Rewards: 600 miles.

• 5 Rewards: 850 miles.

• 7 Rewards: 1300 miles.

Thus, you can redeem a total of up to 22 Rewards per week per Just 4 U account for a total of up to 3,500 Mileage Plan miles.

As a reminder, you earn 1 Reward each time you earn 100 Just 4 U points. Just 4 U points expire at the end of each month, but Rewards expire at the end of the month after they’re earned. Paid FreshPass membership keeps your Rewards from expiring indefinitely.

Mileage Plan Miles Versus Grocery Rewards

If you have access to unlimited Just 4 U points, then the “grocery rewards” double dip is the most valuable option because it allows you to stack multiple grocery rewards redemptions on a single purchase, even to the point of generating a negative balance (although since this will invariably raise suspicion, I recommend spending the negative balance instead, for example by buying a prepaid debit card).

That technique lets you redeem 44 Rewards for $64 off your bill when you buy $20 in groceries (leaving you with $44 to spend on dairy, alcohol, gift cards, or anything else that isn’t usually eligible for Rewards).

Note that the grocery rewards option is only more valuable because of the double dip. If you could not double dip grocery rewards, then redeeming 7 Rewards for 1,300 Mileage Plan miles instead of a $10 grocery reward looks a lot more attractive. Lots of people would be willing to buy Mileage Plan miles for 0.77 cents each, at least at the margin.

What this means is that while double dipping grocery rewards may be the best combination of Just 4 U redemptions, single dipping Mileage Plan redemptions at the 7-Reward level is a solid alternative after you’ve redeemed those and have Rewards left over each week. And this is, in fact, more common than you might think.

Leftover Just 4 U Rewards

Take, for example, last week’s offer for 10 Just 4 U points per dollar spent on Google Play cards. Since you can buy cards up to $500 in value, the maximum earning per card is 5,000 Just 4 U points, or 50 Rewards. After redeeming 44 Rewards through the grocery rewards double dip, you’re left with 6 Rewards. By earning a single additional Reward (or using a leftover Reward from a previous week), you can also redeem for the highest-value Mileage Plan reward the same week, before repeating the process the next week.

I don’t engage in much gift card reselling anymore, but when very high earning rates are offered on high-value cards (or even cards you plan to use yourself), you may be able to break even or turn a profit on Just 4 U rewards in addition to the credit card rewards you earn on the original purchase.

Seven of my favorite travel hacks for people of all skill levels

I was impressed by Greg’s post at The Frequent Miler yesterday, although I was a bit worried since I’d been planning my own post about my favorite still-working travel hacking tips. Fortunately, his list didn’t end up overlapping with mine much at all. Still I thought I should get this post up before anybody else had the same idea.

The list below runs the gamut from “using the program as intended” to “highly illegal” so as always apply your own judgment and discretion when deciding which of these are right for you.

Nesting Alaska Airlines companion tickets

One of the posts I’m most often asked about gives some examples of the zany routes you can book with the companion tickets you get when signing up for Bank of America Alaska Airlines co-branded credit cards and on your account anniversary. It’s such a good deal (a $95 annual fee and a $99 fare (plus taxes!) for any Alaska-operated flight in any economy fare bucket) that almost anyone who lives in or near a city served by Alaska and flies with a companion once a year is virtually certain to come out ahead.

The example I gave in that post is booking a flight from Washington National Airport to Los Angeles, then a roundtrip between LAX and Maui, then a flight back from LAX to DCA. Since you can spend an unlimited amount of time in both Los Angeles and Maui, that’s functionally two itineraries: one between DCA and LAX, and one between LAX and OGG — and the second passenger gets to take both while paying for a single companion ticket (a little over $170 in that example).

If you’re able to “nest” companion tickets on routes you fly regularly you can get even more value from multiple companion tickets. To continue the example above, say you want to return home to DC from LA before your trip to Hawaii. You could of course find that another airline has better timing or prices, but if Alaska is the best carrier for you, you can also book a second companion ticket partially “nested” inside the first one by booking a flight from DCA to LAX that meets up with your existing LAX-OGG itinerary. That gets you to LAX, but remember you already have your return flight from LAX to DCA from the first companion ticket. That means you can use the “return” portion of your second companion ticket to book any “reasonable” routing (see the original post for additional details on routing rules). For example, it’s perfectly legal to use a companion ticket to fly from DCA to LAX, then from Portland, OR to Missoula, MT, then from MSO to DCA.

Thus from two companion tickets we’ve built 3.5 round trips: DCA-LAX, LAX-OGG, PDX-MSO, and then a one-way ticket PDX-DCA.

Using closed or drained debit cards to pay for in-flight food and drinks

This trick has been around since the invention of the inflight credit card reader, but still works almost everywhere. For whatever reason (presumably so the flight attendants don’t screw around on Twitter while they’re working) the handheld readers flight attendants use to charge for in-flight food and drinks aren’t connected to the internet, or at least aren’t connected to a payment server. They apparently dump all the card data when they land, or at the end of the day. That means in flight, you can order whatever you like for free, as long as you have a card that will decline the charge once you land.

Obviously this doesn’t work on cash-only carriers (mostly regional flights these days), and some international carriers verify card data in real time as well. This also does not work for in-flight internet charges in my experience.

Earning free night certificates at hotels you stay at

A lot of people are paid to inflate the value of the free night certificates that come with many credit cards. I’m not, so I take a much more skeptical approach to them. One heuristic I like to use is: “would I use this certificate to extend a stay I’m willing to pay for?” For example, I used a Hilton free night certificate for a sixth night at the Grand Wailea resort in Hawaii, after paying for 5 nights with points (and getting the fifth night free).

On the other hand, in most cities I visit, Marriott properties are either non-existent or not competitive on price with Hilton or Hyatt, so I would never use a free night certificate if it meant locking in a higher daily rate on the remaining paid nights.

Of course, for road warriors who pay for their own expenses, having a trove of free night certificates in case of bad weather or other travel emergencies can save a ton of money on last-minute expenses. I think that’s perfectly reasonable — but it’s also not very many people.

Using Fluz as intended

I wrote about my first experiments using Fluz as intended back in 2021, and while I wouldn’t say I use it often, it’s become a resource I check at least a few times a week. Most travel hackers use Fluz to manufacture spend, but they do also sell gift cards to a range of merchants with automatic cash back (redeemable for cash once you hit a pesky one-time $26 payment threshold).

The basic premise of Fluz is that you can buy exact-denomination gift cards to a surprising range of merchants. Presumably Fluz buys this credit in bulk, then splits the discount with its customers. The value-add of Fluz is that it passes along not just the merchant category but the actual merchant for every card I’ve ordered. For my sins I occasionally order Domino’s pizza from around the corner, and I often have Chase offers on my credit cards for some percentage rebate on Domino’s orders. Since Fluz passes through the merchant to Chase, I can stack my 10% rebate through Chase with my 4% rebate through Fluz (after clicking through shopping portals and applying coupons).

Obviously, this isn’t a great idea at merchants you rarely shop at or are trying for the first time, since if you’re disappointed your payment will be refunded to a gift card you’ll never use. But for picking up a pizza or a burger, or at a store you shop at regularly, it’s a no-brainer.

Registering for hotel promotions

While this may sound like table stakes, I doubt there’s a person in the game who hasn’t gotten home from a trip before realizing that they could have earned a few thousand or more points on their hotel stays if they’d registered for an ongoing promotion in advance. It’s a bad feeling, so avoid it whenever you can!

I try to keep my Hotel Promotions page up-to-date with all currently ongoing and announced promotions, but I’m not always on the ball, so if the chain you’re staying with doesn’t have a promotion listed there, it’s a good idea to search Frequent Miler or go to the hotel promo page at Loyalty Lobby. Note that Loyalty Lobby publishes every promotion, even targeted and regional ones, for every chain so their site is incredibly cluttered, albeit comprehensive.

Using Hotels.com at non-chain hotels (or chains you don’t value)

For the most part, you’re better off booking chain hotels directly if you value the chain’s rewards currency or elite status benefits, since you won’t earn points and may not get elite benefits if you book through a third party like Hotels.com (or Priceline, Expedia, etc).

On the other hand, if you don’t value a chain’s loyalty program, or for stays at non-chain hotels, you can use Hotels.com to “lump” those stays together into Hotels.com’s rewards program. Plus you don’t need their co-branded credit card to participate, although it may help.

Hotels.com also appears in most shopping portals and in Fluz, so you can save money on hotel stays 3 times: clicking through a shopping portal, selecting your stay details, then going to Fluz and buying an exact-denomination gift card for the total amount. Credit cards periodically offer rebates on gift card purchases as well (American Express, Citi).

Knowing the difference between calendar year and cardmember year benefits

This one’s essential to maximizing the value of your credit card benefits, and if you’re paying an annual fee for a credit card, losing out on a benefit you’ve paid for is the worst case scenario. Take the Chase World of Hyatt credit card for instance: it offers a Category 1-4 free night award on every cardmember anniversary, and a second free night award when you spend $15,000 in a calendar year. That means you can get 3 free night awards during your first cardmember year, depending on your anniversary date. If you get the card in July, then you have until December 31 to spend $15,000 on the card to earn the first award, and until June 30 to spend another $15,000 to earn the second, before you even have to decide whether to renew the card for a second year (personally I value the free award nights so highly I plan to keep the card forever, but that may change down the road if my taste in travel evolves).

Other examples of calendar year benefits include most Global Entry and Precheck reimbursements, most airline fee reimbursements, and bonuses for hitting high annual spend thresholds.

Conclusion

My posts normally focus on one topic at a time so it was fun exercise to take a 30,000-foot view of the techniques I actually use to save money on my travel. I manufacture spend to earn the points and miles I need to pay for the outstanding cost of my travel, which makes it even more important to make those outstanding costs as low as possible by double and triple dipping my credit card rewards, portal cashback, and any other discounts I’m able to scrape together, since it means I don’t have to work as hard manufacturing spend!

Monitoring prices and rebooking can be one of the highest-return plays

For experienced travel hackers, the game can sometimes feel a bit mechanical: you earn the most valuable points you can at the lowest cost you can, and periodically re-evaluate which points are the most valuable, and how to earn them at the lowest cost. This doesn’t necessarily make it easy (electrical engineering is also “mechanical” — but it’s still hard!), since earning and redemption opportunities are constantly changing, but when you have a framework in mind it makes it relatively simple to calculate which miles and points are worth earning and when.

But travel hacking isn’t just about earning miles and points efficiently; it’s about paying as little as possible for the trips you want to take. When business class awards are available, or hotel rooms during peak demand periods like the Kentucky Derby are bookable with points, that can often mean saving hundreds or thousands of dollars booking awards. But the cheapest way to book a room, flight, or rental car may well be with cash, and monitoring those prices can save you with a few clicks hundreds of dollars that would take hours of manufactured spend to earn.

The bad old days: Southwest, hotels, and car rentals

These are the three buckets I put the best-behaved companies from the pre-pandemic days into.

• Southwest Airlines would allow you to change or refund Rapid Rewards points into your account up until your flight’s departure, so monitoring the price of your flights from the time you book up until your flight time would allow you to shave down the price a few hundred or thousand points at a time. Paid flights were slightly more restrictive, since any price difference would be deposited in an eventually-expiring travel bank account that could only be used by the original ticketed passenger, which created some urgency to plug more money into the Southwest Airlines ecosystem.

• Hotels have long had flexible rates which require no upfront payment and cancellation policies between 1 and 5 days before arrival. This creates an obvious incentive to immediately book every hotel you’re even considering staying at. If prices fall, rebook at the lower price, and if prices rise, cancel the more expensive reservations and keep the cheapest. If you have high-level status in multiple hotel loyalty programs, this also allows you to monitor for upgrades as you approach your travel date: at the same price point, you might prefer a Globalist suite upgrade at the Park Hyatt Vienna over a standard room at the Hilton Vienna Park, but access to the Hilton executive lounge over a standard room at the Park Hyatt. Booking both in advance lets you pick the one you end up wanting more. And no, I’m not comparing the two hotels in terms of price or quality, but if a family of 4 is deciding whether to book one room at the Park Hyatt (hoping for a suite upgrade that accommodates them all) or two rooms at the Hilton, the prices can sometimes end up fairly close.

• Rental cars are even better, since they don’t even require billing information to book most rates, and Autoslash exists to both find the cheapest rates and monitor existing reservations to alert you when rates fall and you should rebook. Purely as a courtesy to the overworked rental car company staff I usually cancel my prior reservations when I rebook, but it’s not strictly necessary.

Other than those obvious examples, before the pandemic opportunities to rebook and save money were fairly limited. Mid-level airline elite status usually allowed you to redeposit awards tickets for a full refund, so if flights were expensive enough to meet whatever your threshold is to book using airline miles (and everyone’s threshold is different!), but subsequently dropped below that threshold, you could cancel your award tickets and rebook using cash.

Likewise, schedule changes that move your departure or arrival by more than an hour could be refunded to the original form of payment, so if you booked your flights far enough in advance you had a good chance of having an opportunity to request a penalty-free refund, as I did in May, 2020.

The opportunity set has greatly expanded

All of the tools I described above still exist, but the new “permanent” (where I have I heard that before?) policies adopted by US airlines have increased the number of opportunities to save money by booking early and continuing to monitor prices afterwards. However, while they sound similar and were announced around the same time frame, to take advantage of them you need to understand the key differences between airline policies.

1. Which fares are eligible? United, American, and Delta exempt Basic Economy fares from their no-change-fee policy, as Alaska does with its Saver fares and JetBlue with its Blue Basic fares. If you’re trying to play fares against each other, be sure not to book a fare that’s non-changeable and non-refundable! Note that these non-changeable fares are still eligible for refund under Department of Transportation rules if there’s a significant schedule change.

2. What happens when you cancel? For paid fares, unless you’re eligible for a refund due to a schedule change, or booked into a refundable fare class, you’ll usually be given a “flight credit” (United), “travel credit” (American, JetBlue), “eCredit” (Delta) or “Wallet” (Alaska). These funds expire, so it’s important to keep a close eye on them.

3. Who can use the ticket value? I believe (but correct me in the comments if I’m wrong) Alaska is the only airline that allows you to deposit “Wallet” funds into your own Wallet or, by requesting a voucher be e-mailed to you, any other Mileage Plan account. This is notably a way to share Companion Fares without sharing the cardholder’s credit card information, since Companion Fares can be paid for in full using Wallet funds, even if the person booking the ticket is not an Alaska Airlines credit cardholder (if Wallet funds don’t cover the full cost, any residual must be paid for with an Alaska Airlines credit card).

4. What are your expected flight needs? This is a highly individualized calculation. For example, my partner and I fly to the Pacific Northwest on Alaska and the Midwest on American and Delta at least once or twice per year, so any travel credit, eCredit, or Wallet funds I receive by cancelling a flight on those airlines is absolutely certain to be used. Conversely, it appears I have not flown on United since October, 2017 (although I may be breaking that streak this summer!), so I would never book a paid United flight as a “backup” since there’s virtually no chance I would ever use the flight credit.

Conclusion: use flexibility to your advantage, but don’t get too clever

Especially with respect to hotels and rental cars, making multiple reservations as far in advance as possible and then monitoring prices for opportunities to rebook has always made sense. But the added flexibility of pandemic airline policies makes this is a meaningful way to save money on all the main components of travel planning.

Still, as the voice of caution, I have to remind my beloved readers not to bite off more than they can chew. While rental cars don’t typically charge no-show fees, airlines and hotels absolutely do, so if you don’t trust yourself to keep a close eye on all your reservations as your travel date approaches, don’t bother, since a single no-show penalty is going to wipe out any savings you may have been counting on in advance.

Advantages to getting more involved in the travel hacking community

A few weeks back I wrote about some reasons why most people don’t have much interest in the travel hacking game, and why they’re mostly right: if you don’t have the bug, then it’s mind-bendingly boring to keep track of dozens of credit cards, loyalty programs, booking tricks, routing rules, etc.

Nevertheless, I’m quite involved, and if you’re reading this you probably are as well, so I thought I’d explore some of the obvious advantages of not just playing the game, but getting involved in one or more groups, following folks you respect on Twitter (or Instagram or Facebook, if you’re one of those people), and in general building relationships with other people who share your passion.

The most obvious advantage of making friends with other folks in the community is that it allows you to optimize your earning and redemptions over time. This can sometimes be purely transactional, and there’s nothing wrong with that: when I won a Bose sound system through an IHG sweepstakes, I sold it to a reader for a few hundred bucks lower than the list price, so he got a cheap sound system and I didn’t have to go to the trouble of listing it on Amazon or eBay, or dealing with a stranger through Craigslist or Facebook.

Folks like Vinh at Miles per Day have scaled this up a huge degree, going so far as to connect buyers and sellers of in-demand US Mint coins, but you don’t need to go that far to simply get to know people who might have miles and points you need, or might need the miles and points you have but don’t have immediate plans for.

Swapping referrals and signup bonuses

This option is talked about enough that I don’t think I need to go into it at any length, but when large credit card offers come around you may find that you’re not eligible (for example due to Chase’s 5/24 rule or Bank of America’s 2/3/4 rule) but someone else you know in the community is. Instead of sitting on the sidelines, you can ask your friends if they’d like to swap signup bonuses — maybe they’ve been banned from Citi for money order shenanigans and you haven’t, but you’re over 5/24 and they aren’t.

Expiring or useless free nights

Most folks don’t have too much trouble redeeming the free anniversary night that comes with the Chase World of Hyatt or American Express Hilton Honors Aspire credit cards, but might run into a problem when it comes to free night certificates with worse loyalty programs:

The IHG Rewards Club Premier Credit Card comes with a free reward night (at properties costing up to 40,000 points) on every anniversary, which is certainly worth more than the $89 annual fee to someone, but it might not be worth it to you because of how much more valuable the required Ultimate Rewards points to “fill out” an IHG award redemption would be if transferred to a different partner. Cancelling the card saves you $89, but it also means that no one gets to use the award, while you may be able to sell or trade it to someone who can get hundreds of dollars in value from it.

Likewise the Marriott Bonvoy Boundless (Chase) and Brilliant (American Express) cards come with annual free nights worth up to 35,000 and 50,000 points, respectively. Those aren’t worth their $95 and $450 annual fees to me, but especially in the case of the Brilliant card, you could easily wipe out your annual fee by selling or trading those rewards, when combined with the $300 property credit (Marriott properties used to sell physical gift cards you could resell or trade, although it’s been too long for me to know whether they still do).

Companion tickets

Another annual benefit you might not be able to personally use is airline companion tickets, like those offered by the Bank of America Alaska Airlines credit cards and the American Express Delta Platinum and Reserve cards.

The Alaska Airlines companion fare is the easiest to exchange with comrades because of a curious feature: when booking the companion ticket, any cash component of the reservation has to be paid for with an Alaska Airlines credit card, unless it is covered by funds you already have in your “Wallet.” This provides a simple way to book companion tickets without needing any information from the cardholder: just book a ticket that costs slightly more than the companion ticket, refund it to your Wallet, then pay with that balance.

Meanwhile, the Delta companion tickets have to be paid for in full with the credit card that generated the companion ticket (previously, any American Express card could be used, but that’s now changed in my experience). This makes the ticket slightly less transferable, since you need to place more trust in the person booking the ticket, which is another way of saying it’s good to make friends and connections in the community!

Transferable points and status

Another advantage of having friends in the community, especially ones that do things slightly differently than you, is the ability to pool points and status between programs. My two favorite examples of this are World of Hyatt and Hilton Honors.

World of Hyatt members can send and receive points by filling out the “Point combining request form,” which allows you to make award reservations out of the most advantageous account, and without contaminating either person’s relationship with Chase (there are strict limits on the number and frequency of Ultimate Rewards point transfers to non-household-members). Besides topping up a low balance, the main reason to do this is to make a Guest of Honor booking from an account with Globalist status, giving the guest the potentially valuable benefits like complimentary breakfast, lounge access, and waived parking fees, plus late checkout.

Hilton Honors has an even more streamlined system, with (in my experience) instant transfers after completing the online "transfer points” form. Their terminology is a little bit curious, but you “gift” points when you want to buy someone points with cash, and “transfer” points when you want to reduce your balance and increase their balance. Besides sharing Hilton’s fairly limited status benefits like potential upgrades, late checkout, and the dining credit that replaced their breakfast benefit, combining points in a single account allows you to take advantage of the very valuable 5th-night-free benefit on award stays (for elite members, including Silver elites, so pretty much everybody). This technique recently helped me book 7 nights in Hawaii for the price of 5 by combining 6 award nights and an annual American Express Surpass free night certificate.

Conclusion

Like any community, we’ve got our fair share of jerks, creeps, and affiliate bloggers, but overall I’ve been impressed by how warm and welcoming I’ve found the community to be, both at in-person events and online. There are obvious exceptions to be avoided, but if you’ve got the travel hacking bug, I think the advantages of getting more involved in the community swamp the pain of talking to the occasional jerk. And it always helps to remember that however small fry you think you are (and they don’t get much smaller than me), there’s almost certainly something you know that almost nobody else does, whether it’s a merchant coding error or a bank error in your favor: almost everybody has something to contribute.

Deciding where to credit Alaska, American, and JetBlue flights

A sort of interesting conundrum has arisen recently due to the coincidence of Alaska Airlines becoming a full member of the oneworld alliance, which American Airlines also belongs to, and American entering a codeshare agreement with JetBlue that allows reciprocal earning for paid flights on both airlines (redemptions are not yet available).

That means if you’re flying on any of the three carriers (except JetBlue’s transatlantic fares, which don’t earn American miles), you have between 2 and 3 reasonable programs to credit your flights to. Note that Hawaiian Airlines is another partner of American and JetBlue, but unless you’re a Hawaii resident it doesn’t seem like a particularly generous program so I’ll set it aside for now.

There’s no one right answer for everybody, so I want to lay out the general principles I’d use to decide where to credit my flights.

Value of points

This is the easiest calculation to make: how much do you value the points you’ll earn on a given flight if credited to each? Note the discussion below is based on having no elite status in any of the three programs. You’ll need to calculate your individual breakeven point based on your actual elite status in each program using the linked earning charts.

Flights operated by JetBlue

For flights operated by JetBlue, you’re comparing the value of the TrueBlue points you’d earn to the value of the American AAdvantage points you’d earn. For example, non-elites earn 6 TrueBlue points per dollar when booked through the JetBlue app and website or 5 AAdvantage miles. TrueBlue points are worth 1.4 cents when redeemed for most fares, so if you value AAdvantage miles at more than 1.68 cents, credit your JetBlue flights to American. The only additional consideration is if you typically redeem your JetBlue flights for flights in their Mint cabin, you’ll get less than 1.1 cent per point in value, so you only need to value AAdvantage points at 1.3 cents to break even with the lower earning rate when credited to American. Finally, Blue Basic fares earn just 2 TrueBlue points per dollar but 5 AAdvantage miles per dollar, so in most cases you’ll want to credit them to American.

Here are the relevant earning charts for JetBlue flights:

• JetBlue TrueBlue

• American AAdvantage

Flights operated by Alaska

For flights operated by Alaska, we need to look not at the revenue-based earning of JetBlue flights, but the distance-based computations of Alaska Mileage Plan and American AAdvantage. For example, when an Alaska flight booked into a first class “J” fare is credited to Mileage Plan, non-elites earn 100% of the miles flown and a 100% bonus, while the same flight credited to AAdvantage earns just a 75% bonus. If value is your only consideration, you’d need to value AAdvantage miles at more than 14% above Mileage Plan miles to choose to credit that flight to American.

Even the cheapest Alaska flights still earn 100% of the distance flown with a 500-mile minimum, while the cheapest X-class Alaska fares earn just 25% of the distance flown when credit to American, so if you’re booking into cheap fare classes you’d need to consider American miles two to four times more valuable than Mileage Plan miles to choose to credit your flights to AAdvantage based on value alone.

Here are the relevant earning charts for flights operated by Alaska:

• Alaska Mileage Plan

• American AAdvantage

Flights operated by American

Finally, American Airlines-operated flights pose the biggest challenge, since they can now be credited to Alaska, American, or JetBlue. When credited to American or JetBlue, they are revenue based, but when credited to Alaska, earning remains distance based. In other words, the optimal airline to credit American flights to depends on the cost, distance, and fare class of the flight. Cheap premium fares might earn many more points in Mileage Plan, while expensive economy fares earn more in AAdvantage.

Take for instance the flight I take a few times a year to visit my partner’s family in Indiana. This Thanksgiving, that 500-mile American flight in their “M” fare class costs $249, and would earn a non-elite 1,245 AAdvantage miles, 500 Alaska miles, or 1,494 TrueBlue points. Since I have MVP status with Alaska, I’d earn a 50% bonus for a total of 750 Mileage Plan miles. Since I don’t fly JetBlue, and pay with cash when I fly American for these short holiday flights, I find the 750 Mileage Plan miles the most appealing and credit my American flights there. An exception would be if the only flights available were very expensive economy fares, since Alaska awards a maximum of 110% for American economy fares, while you can earn up to 75,000 miles per ticket in American’s revenue-based scheme.

Here are the relevant earning charts for flights operated by American:

• American AAdvantage

• Alaska Mileage Plan

• JetBlue TrueBlue

Elite status

Obviously many travel hackers pursue elite status in one or more program, whether it’s to earn miles at an accelerated rate or to take advantage of other benefits like free upgrades, changes and cancellations, lounge access, etc.

Elite status in one program

I imagine this is the most common case: if you live in a city served by two or more of these airlines but book exclusively based on price, you might fly too few miles to earn status in any of the three programs if you credit each flight to the carrier’s program, but enough miles to earn status if you credit all your flights to one of them.

An obvious example is someone living in Boston, a city that’s served by American, Alaska, and JetBlue, who splits their flights between the three carriers, but doesn’t fly enough on any one of them to earn elite status. In this case, there are three natural possibilities:

1. Credit all flights to American. For many people this is the obvious solution, especially since someone who books exclusively on price is by definition going to struggle to meet the Elite Qualifying Dollar and Segment requirements for AAdvantage elite status. JetBlue flights (except Blue Basic) earn full EQM, EQD and EQS credit, while Alaska flights earn them based on fare class and distance flown.

2. Credit Alaska and American to Mileage Plan, JetBlue to TrueBlue. The appeal here is that Alaska Airlines doesn’t have a spending requirement for elite status and has a somewhat lower mileage requirement than other carriers, combining Alaska and American flights might get you to their mid-tier MVP Gold status, which translates to oneworld Sapphire status and free access to those lounges when traveling internationally. There is downside in the possibility of orphaning your TrueBlue points, but since JetBlue allows you to book with both points and cash, they’re actually relatively difficult to orphan compared to most loyalty schemes.

3. Credit American and JetBlue to TrueBlue, Alaska to Mileage Plan. The TrueBlue program only has a single elite status level, called Mosaic, which you achieve when you earn 15,000 base points, i.e. when you spend $5,000 on JetBlue or their partners. I consider Mosaic the least valuable of the three, especially for casual flyers, but there are those who swear by it. The main quantifiable benefits are free checked bags, changes, and cancellations, and the secondary benefits are free (albeit space-available) upgrades their extended legroom seats and free booze. This strategy has the downside of orphaning your Mileage Plan miles, but for a casual traveler that may not be a big deal, for instance if your Alaska Airlines flights are all paid companion fare tickets (as 90% of mine are), you may not have any plans to redeem Mileage Plan miles and have no particular interest in the program.

Elite status in multiple programs

It’s worth mentioning the opposite situation: someone who flies enough on one or more of the carriers to earn elite status in two or more of these programs. Should they spread their flight credit around, or concentrate their fire on just one (or two) programs as described above?

Let’s take an extreme example: someone who each year flies 75,000 miles on Alaska, spends $15,000 and flies 100,000 miles on American, and spends $5,000 on JetBlue. If each flight was credited to the carrier’s loyalty program, the flyer would earn MVP Gold 75K with Alaska, AAdvantage Executive Platinum, and TrueBlue Mosaic. They’d also earn the following redeemable miles:

• 218,000 Mileage Plan (125% bonus miles plus 50,000 miles on MVP Gold 75K qualification);

• 235,000 AAdvantage (11 miles per dollar plus 20,000 miles on Platinum Pro qualification and 50,000 on Executive Platinum qualification);

• 150,000 TrueBlue (9 points per dollar plus 15,000 points on Mosaic qualification. Add 12,000 points if you also fly 7 round-trip flights).

Here are those same values in each of the three crediting scenarios I described above (assuming an average earning rate of 50% when crediting Alaska flights to AAdvantage and vice versa, and an average earning rate of 7.5 points per dollar when crediting American flights to TrueBlue, since non-codeshare flights can’t be booked through JetBlue):

1. 372,500 AAdvantage (82,000 from Alaska flights and 55,000 from JetBlue flights);

2. 330,500 Mileage Plan (112,500 from American flights), 150,000 TrueBlue;

3. 262,000 TrueBlue (112,500 from American flights), 218,000 Mileage Plan.

An actual flyer’s experience would vary based on the exact Alaska fare classes and exact American flights they took, but this should be the result you expected: since airlines naturally reward their own passengers more generously than those of their partners, concentrating your fire does increase your total earning in your focus program, but not by as much as it reduces your earning in your distributed programs. In a sense this functions the same way as a points transfer from Marriott to United: you’ll never get as many miles into United as you got out of Marriott. It may still be worth it depending on your plans and corresponding needs, but only after careful scrutiny and exploring other alternatives.

Conclusion

If you made it this far, congratulations! If you found this analysis useful, even better. If you found this analysis mindlessly boring, well, send it to someone you want to annoy.

I personally plan to bookmark the post for my own convenience just to have those earning links in one place, since I find it irritating to track down cross-airline earning rates every time I fly and need to decide where to credit flights based on fare class, elite status, and partner programs.

Disappointed by Alaska Airlines IT, satisfied by their customer service

I wrote a few weeks back about the maze of rules relating to the elimination of change fees by most US carriers. My basic conclusion was that eliminating fees is better than keeping them, but that if you’re trying to claim a credit for a fall in price you should anticipate having to put some work in.

That turned out to be prophetic in my own case, rebooking a 3-week trip out West in July. But while I didn’t run into any problems with Alaska’s change fees, I am now 3 weeks into an IT saga.

My reservation was complicated, but uneventful

For my summer trip, I booked a fairly straightforward multi-city itinerary, with stops in California, Oregon, and Montana. I was able to book the itinerary entirely online, and I didn’t violate any of Alaska’s rudimentary routing rules. However, I did pay for it in a modestly complicated way:

• I made the reservation logged into another person’s account, using their companion fare;

• I paid for part of the fare using their Wallet funds;

• and I paid for the rest using their Alaska Airlines credit card.

Obviously there are a lot of moving pieces here, but the reservation itself was made online with no hiccups.

Changing the reservation was straightforward

In my original post, I wrote that Alaska “offers two methods of changing an existing itinerary.” It turns out that’s not right. You can also “Deposit a ticket” through the “Wallet” tab in your account, which offers three additional options:

View fullsize

In hindsight, I wish I’d chosen one of those options! Instead, I called in, had my ticket re-priced, and was told I’d receive a certificate by e-mail I could deposit to my Wallet.

But, the certificate never came.

A “known issue,” but nobody knows what it is

When I called back last week to follow up, the rep made me walk through the entire story from scratch, researched the history of the ticket, put me on hold while she called accounting, and then confirmed that I was due the $720 certificate, which I would receive by e-mail.

Yet again, the certificate never came.

When I called in again today, I decided to be a bit more straightforward: they had screwed up, I was sick of being given the runaround, and I needed to know what they were doing to fix it. This elicited a slightly more effective reaction, and the phone rep contacted the most knowledgable person in accounting she knew (“I’ve been working here for 29 years and Carrie’s been here even longer than me”).

This time, I got what seems like a sensible answer: “there’s a known IT issue, accounting is making great strides to fix it, and it will hopefully be resolved soon.” She even threw in that “Carrie” had recognized my name and knew I was one of the “handful” of people affected by the issue.

She also offered me a $100 discount code, bringing the total gross value of the rebooking to $783. I don’t believe I’ll be able to use the discount code since (unlike Wallet funds) I don’t think discount codes can be combined with companion tickets. Still, someone will surely use it.

Conclusion

I don’t know exactly which piece of my booking broke Alaska’s IT, so there’s nothing I can recommend to avoid running into the same problem until it’s finally resolved. I suspect it has something to do with how their change fee waiver populated across various systems, since I was using a companion fare, Wallet funds, and a non-traveler’s credit card.

But despite the incomplete and inadequate information they’ve given me since the beginning, I came away impressed with their overall customer service. Even as an entry-level MVP elite, I never had to wait more than a few minutes on hold. Every rep I spoke to confirmed that I was owed the fare difference, so there was no need to recite terms and conditions to them at any point. And when the problem continued far too long I was even offered a fare discount as a goodwill gesture.

It’s not like people have much of a choice in carrier these days, but I’m frankly thrilled Alaska's doing their best to keep up their customer service standards.

When free changes make it worthwhile to hunt for lower fares

If you’ve been following the airline industry at all for the last 6 months, you know that lots of US airlines have made their COVID-19 change and cancellation fee waiver policies permanent for most fare classes:

• United eliminated change fees on all but Basic Economy fares, and on award tickets;

• Delta eliminated change fees on all but Basic Economy fares;

• American eliminated change fees on all but Basic Economy fares and the redeposit fee for cancelled award reservations;

• and Alaska eliminated change fees on all but Saver fares.

There are some exceptions to these policies, mainly for itineraries originating outside the United States, but the overall picture is clear: as long as you don’t book Basic Economy or Saver fares, then you can change your itinerary up to departure by paying any positive fare difference. However, the airlines are handling negative fare differences differently:

• United states “If your new flight costs less, you’ll be able to change for free but will not receive a refund of the fare difference.”

• Delta states “Notwithstanding any rules or ticketing policies to the contrary, if the newly selected flight is for the same travel dates, for the same origin and destination, and results in a lower ticket price, then the reissued ticket will be deemed issued at the same ticket price as the original ticket (i.e., any fare difference will not be issued in the form of a credit).” This is a little bit confusing since it suggests that if you change the dates, origin, or destination of your flights, then the fare difference will be issued in the form of a credit.

• American by contrast states they allow “customers to keep the full value of eligible tickets if they change their travel plans prior to their scheduled travel. Although customers will have to pay the fare difference for a new flight, customers will not lose their ticket value if the new flight is less expensive.”

I wasn’t able to find definitive guidance one way or the other on Alaska’s website. But fortunately, back in December I booked a companion fare itinerary that had since radically dropped in price, so I decided to find out.

Alaska’s confused and confusing booking engine

One thing I love about Alaska companion fares is just how much value you can wring out of them. Their extremely generous routing rules mean you can stitch together two or three vacations with a single companion fare.

Back in December, I booked a roughly 3-week vacation in July with stops in California, Oregon, and Montana for a total of $1,792.30: a $1,664.10 primary fare and $128.20 companion fare. When I checked the identical itinerary this week, it had fallen to $1,105.04: a $943.61 primary fare and $161.43 companion fare.

Alaska Airlines offers two methods of changing an existing itinerary: you can change some or all of the flights on the itinerary, or you can cancel the itinerary and do a new search. I immediately encountered two problems: first, neither option allowed me to select the exact same flights I had already booked. This makes a certain amount of epistemological sense (how can you rebook an itinerary onto the exact same flights?).

The more serious problem was that rather than being offered a travel credit of $687.26, I was being asked to pay an additional $33.23.

The site didn’t offer any useful information beyond that, so I knew it was time to call in.

A helpful phone rep (and those 33 mystery dollars)

After a brief hold, I explained the situation to my Alaska phone rep and she immediately understood the situation. She did a search for the exact same flights on the exact same days, and came up with a slightly higher fare difference of $720.49, which she said I’d receive in my travel wallet. Meanwhile, I’d owe the exact same $33.23 in additional taxes that I saw online, which I had to pay by credit card.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, she did not see the humor in this situation, and did not see the logic in my proposal to simply use some of my $720 credit to pay the $33 in taxes. She did, however, explain that the $33 was the result of a fee that had been waived through December, 2020, but reimposed January 1, 2021. Since I’d booked my ticket in December, but was repricing it in February, I needed to cough up the difference.

Now that I know where the $33.23 online charge comes from, what I don’t know is whether the online booking engine would have automatically calculated my $720.49 credit and deposited it in my account, or if I would have permanently lost it had I gone ahead rebooking the flights online. This is obviously irrelevant when rebooking flights originally booked after January 1, 2021, but if you’re making changes to flights originally booked in 2020 be prepared to call in to be on the safe side.

Conclusion

The bottom line is, change fees are terrible because all fees are terrible, so anything and everything airlines do to reduce or eliminate them is an unalloyed good. But having said that, not all change fee waivers are made alike, and there’s a big difference between a policy that lets you keep the full value of your tickets and one that merely lets you rebook without paying even more on top of fare differences.

When individual airline policies don’t voluntarily meet your needs, remember you always have the option to watch out for schedule changes and assert your rights, instead.